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Merkato

Thing to do · Open-air marketAddis Ketema, Addis Ababa

Huge open-air market west of Piazza, often called Africa's largest, with sections for coffee, spices, grain, clothing, household goods and recycled metal.

At a glance

Type
Open-air market
Area
Addis Ketema, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

Good to know

  • Coffee stalls
  • Spice and grain sections
  • Recycling section

Why we recommend it

Merkato is the commercial engine of Addis Ababa and one of the most memorable experiences in the city, even if you buy nothing at all. It is widely described as the largest open-air market in Africa, spreading over several square miles in the west of the city, with thousands of businesses packed into its lanes. Abeba Tours, a local operator that includes it in its city programmes, counts more than 7,000 businesses.

The market has its roots in the Italian occupation of the 1930s. Before then, the city's main market stood near St George's Cathedral, on the site of today's City Hall. The occupying authorities restricted that area to Europeans, renamed it Piazza and moved local traders west to the district around Fitawrari Habte Giyorgis Dinagde, the origin of the present Merkato. Since the 1960s Ethiopian shopkeepers have dominated, and the market has kept growing without a master plan, expanding into areas for different types of goods known as tera.

That organisation by trade is what makes a visit so absorbing. One area is given over to produce, another to coffee and the clay jebena pots used to brew it, another to spices and grain, others to clothing, household goods and furniture. The scrap metal recycling section, where old materials are reworked and resold, is one of the most interesting areas to watch. Coffee is the most important product passing through the market, and the coffee and snack stalls are where most travellers end up buying something.

It helps to go with a guide or as part of a city tour. Most of the market is wholesale, the layout grew without a plan, and it is easy to lose your bearings, so a local companion will find the interesting sections and explain what is being traded. Wear comfortable closed shoes, carry little, and ask before photographing people or stalls. Allow two to three hours.

Merkato lies west of Piazza, so it pairs naturally with St George's Cathedral, the Adwa Victory Memorial Museum and a coffee at the original Tomoca on Wavel Street. If you want to buy spices or coffee to take home, ask your guide to show you sellers used to dealing with small retail quantities.

Merkato FAQs

How big is Merkato?

It is often called the largest open-air market in Africa, covering several square miles with thousands of businesses.

What can I buy?

Coffee, jebena coffee pots, spices, grain, clothing, household goods and recycled metalwork are all traded in their own sections.

Do I need a guide?

It is strongly recommended. The market is mostly wholesale and easy to get lost in, and a guide will find the interesting sections.

When is the best time to go?

Go in daylight with a guide and allow plenty of time; it is a working wholesale market, so weekdays show it at its most active.

How long should I allow?

Two to three hours for a guided walk.

Can I take photographs?

Ask first before photographing people or stalls.

How did the market start?

It grew from traders moved west of Piazza during the Italian occupation in the 1930s.

What is nearby?

Piazza, St George's Cathedral and the Adwa Victory Memorial Museum are to the east.

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