Thing to do
Tingatinga Arts Cooperative Society
The Oyster Bay home of Tingatinga painting, where a cooperative gallery sells work and artists paint in studios lining the road near Morogoro Stores.
Kivukoni Fish Market
A large harbourside fish market on Kivukoni Front where the morning catch is auctioned to restaurants and residents, with stalls frying fish to eat on the spot.
At a glance
- Type
- Fish market and auction
- Area
- Kivukoni, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania
Good to know
- Early-morning auction
- Fried fish stalls
- Free entry
Why we recommend it
Kivukoni Fish Market sits on the harbour at the northern end of Kivukoni Front, in the historic centre. The ward's name means "crossing place" in Swahili, and the market is counted among the largest fish markets in Tanzania. It is a working market rather than a tourist attraction, which is exactly why it is worth seeing.
The action starts early. When the fishing boats come in, the day's catch is laid out and auctioned, with restaurant buyers and residents haggling loudly over the price. Expect to see whole fish of every size, octopus, eels, lobsters, shellfish and heaps of small silvery fish, and to smell it well before you see it. Part of the market is given over to stalls frying fish, so you can watch the catch being sold and then eat some of it a few metres away.
Go as early as you can, ideally soon after sunrise, when the auction is busiest and the heat has not yet built up. Wear closed shoes you do not mind getting wet, as the ground is often slippery, and carry small notes in Tanzanian shillings if you want to buy or eat. Bargaining is expected. Keep phones and wallets secure in the crowds, and ask before photographing traders, some of whom will not want to be filmed.
The market suits curious travellers, photographers and anyone who enjoys food markets, though the smell and the crowds will not appeal to everyone, and young children may find it overwhelming. Allow 30 to 60 minutes. If you would rather go with a local guide, several Dar es Salaam city tours, such as the one run by Daigle Tours, include the market.
Kivukoni Front is in the historic centre, so the market fits naturally into a morning walk. Afterwards, follow the waterfront west to Azania Front Lutheran Church and St Joseph's Cathedral, then head inland to the Askari Monument and the National Museum. Alternatively, cross on the ferry to Kigamboni for the beaches on the far side of the channel. Many hotels in the city centre, including the Hyatt Regency Kilimanjaro, Four Points by Sheraton New Africa and Johari Rotana, are within walking distance.
Kivukoni Fish Market FAQs
When is the best time to visit?
Early in the morning, when the boats come in and the auction is busiest.
Where is the market?
On the harbour at the northern end of Kivukoni Front, off Ocean Road.
What is sold there?
Fish of all sizes, octopus, eels, lobsters, shellfish and small silvery fish.
Can I eat at the market?
Yes. Stalls fry fish to eat on the spot.
Is bargaining expected?
Yes. Prices are negotiated, so carry small notes.
Is it suitable for children?
Older children may enjoy it, but the smell, crowds and wet floors can be overwhelming for younger ones.
How long should I spend?
About 30 to 60 minutes.
Can I take photographs?
Ask traders first, as some prefer not to be photographed.