Bagamoyo Day Trip

Bagamoyo is a small coastal town about 75 kilometres north of Dar es Salaam, facing Zanzibar across the channel, and it makes the most rewarding day trip from the city for anyone interested in history. In the first half of the nineteenth century it was the coastal terminus of the caravan routes from the interior, shipping ivory and enslaved people on to Zanzibar. The slave trade was officially banned in 1873 but continued in secret for years afterwards. From 1886 to 1891 Bagamoyo was the first capital of German East Africa, before Dar es Salaam took over, and the town declined once the railway from Dar es Salaam to the interior was built. It is now a National Historic Site of Tanzania.

The name is often translated as "lay down your heart", which may refer either to porters resting at the end of the caravan route or to the slave trade; historians disagree. The town's best-known site is the Catholic mission, founded by the Holy Ghost Fathers in 1868 on land north of the town as the first mission in East Africa. It began as a home for children freed from slavery and grew into a church, school and workshops. After his death, the body of David Livingstone was laid in the tower of the old church, now known as the Livingstone Tower, while waiting for high tide to be shipped to Zanzibar.

About five kilometres south of town, the Kaole Ruins mark a far older settlement, founded around 800 CE. The remains include two mosques and around 30 tombs dating from the thirteenth century. Back in town, look for the German-era buildings and the dhow-building yards on the beach, and check whether anything is on at the Bagamoyo Arts and Cultural Institute (TaSUBa), the country's main arts training college.

The drive north takes at least an hour and can take much longer in heavy traffic, so leave early. A private taxi or a driver for the day is the most flexible option; dala-dala minibuses also run from Dar es Salaam to a stand south-east of the town. Several Dar-based operators, including Daigle Tours, include Bagamoyo in their programmes.

Allow a full day. Wear a hat and comfortable shoes, carry water and cash for entrance fees and guides, and dress modestly in town. A guide at the mission or Kaole helps bring the stories to life.