Etsu Izakaya

Etsu Izakaya is one of the Gold Coast's original Japanese eateries and still appears on the official tourism organisation's list of the city's hatted restaurants. It is on the Gold Coast Highway at Mermaid Beach and pairs Japanese cooking with a drinks list that the tourism board picks out as one of its strengths.

The menu is split into dinner and drinks, and its set menus explore Japanese ingredients and flavours, which is a good way in if you are not sure what to order. The dish the tourism board recommends is the Wagyu gyoza, and the drinks list is singled out as a highlight, so take time over sake, Japanese spirits or cocktails rather than defaulting to a beer.

The list is unusually deep for a neighbourhood restaurant. Sake comes by the glass, tokkuri or bottle, from sparkling styles to junmai ginjo and premium daiginjo, and there are flights of sake, Japanese whisky and beer for anyone who wants to compare. The whisky shelf covers names such as Nikka, Hibiki, Yamazaki, Hakushu and Ichiro's, and there are umeshu plum wines, shochu made from sugarcane and sweet potato, and Japanese beers on draught and in bottles. House cocktails include a seasonal shochu chu-hai and a ginger highball made with Japanese whisky, and non-drinkers have house yuzu ginger beer and alcohol-free cocktails.

The restaurant opens every day from 4:30pm until late, including public holidays, which makes it one of the more reliable choices on the coast for an early dinner or a spontaneous night out. It closes only on Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Year's Day. Being open from late afternoon also suits families wanting to eat before children get tired.

Etsu suits groups of friends, couples and anyone looking for a fun, mid-priced evening. For larger parties and events, submit a group enquiry through the website or by email, and the team will reply about availability, curated set menu options and any special arrangements. Smaller tables can be reserved online through the booking page.

Booking ahead is wise on Friday and Saturday nights, and note that surcharges apply on Sundays and public holidays. Allow about two hours. Little Truffle at 2444 Gold Coast Highway and The North Room at 2527 are on the same stretch of highway, so Mermaid Beach rewards food lovers who plan several dinners in the area. Gift cards are sold through the website, which also has pages for reservations, group events and contact details.