Kelaniya Raja Maha Vihara

Kelaniya Raja Maha Vihara is one of the most venerated Buddhist temples in Sri Lanka and the most rewarding short trip out of central Colombo. It stands in Kelaniya, about 11 kilometres north-east of the city centre, and Buddhists believe the Buddha visited the site on his third and final journey to the island, eight years after his enlightenment. According to the Mahavamsa chronicle, a stupa here enshrines a gem-studded throne on which the Buddha sat and preached after settling a dispute between two Naga kings, who later gave the throne to Maniakkika, the Naga ruler of Kelaniya.

The temple's fortunes followed the island's history. It flourished during the Kotte period, lost much of its land under the Portuguese, received new grants under the Dutch, and was rebuilt under King Kirthi Sri Rajasinghe. In the first half of the 20th century it was refurbished with support from Helena Wijewardene, and this is when the artist Solias Mendis painted its celebrated murals. They depict key events in the life of the Buddha, episodes from the history of Buddhism in Sri Lanka and scenes from the Jataka tales, and they are the main reason many visitors make the journey.

Other things to look for include a reclining Buddha image and a 5.5-metre stone statue of the Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara. Each January the temple holds the Duruthu Maha Perahera, a procession that draws large crowds, so check dates if you want to see it, or avoid that period if you prefer a quiet visit.

This is an active place of worship, so dress modestly with shoulders and knees covered, and be ready to remove your shoes, as at other Buddhist temples in Sri Lanka such as Gangaramaya. Allow at least an hour to see the murals properly, and go in the morning or late afternoon, as the paving can be hot underfoot at midday.

A tuk-tuk or taxi from central Colombo is the simplest way to reach Kelaniya, and the journey time depends heavily on traffic. Combining the temple with Gangaramaya earlier in the day gives a good sense of how Colombo's Buddhist traditions range from the ancient to the modern.