Restaurant
Suvarna Mahal at Rambagh Palace
Rambagh Palace's formal Indian dining room, set in a hall styled on an 18th-century palace ballroom and serving royal recipes from Rajasthan and beyond.
Open-air restaurant at Hathroi Fort from the team behind Native Cocktail Room, pairing laal maas and nihari with well-made cocktails.
Good to know
Peacock is an open-air restaurant in the Hathroi Fort area, off Ajmer Road on Hari Kishan Somani Marg, inside the Hotel Pearl Palace building. It is run by the founders of Native Cocktail Room and Primitive, two of the city's better-known drinking spots, which share the same building. The result is a place that takes both its food and its drinks seriously, and it has become a popular address for an evening meal under the sky.
The kitchen is best known for Rajasthani and North Indian meat dishes. Laal maas, the fiery red mutton curry of Rajasthan, and mutton nihari are the two dishes most diners order, and both are rich and slow-cooked. Other favourites include chicken lahsuni, flavoured with garlic, and a mutton ghee roast. Vegetarians are not forgotten, with paneer kofta in a sweet chilli reduction and a jackfruit pepper fry among the options.
Given the owners' background, the drinks list is a highlight. Cocktails include an espresso martini, a gin drink made with vanilla and coffee and topped with Indian tonic, and the house Peacock Collins. There are also well-made mocktails, such as a pink rose cooler and a passion fruit drink, for anyone not drinking alcohol.
Prices are moderate for the quality, making this a good choice for a relaxed dinner with friends or a couple's evening out without the formality of a palace hotel. Because seating is outdoors, the cooler months from October to March are the most comfortable time to visit, and evenings are the most atmospheric. Booking ahead is wise at weekends.
Peacock is a good choice for travellers who want to see the contemporary side of Jaipur's dining scene, where traditional Rajasthani meat dishes sit alongside a modern cocktail list. It is a useful option for groups with both drinkers and non-drinkers, since the mocktail list is given real attention alongside the cocktails, and the vegetarian dishes stand up well next to the meat.
Peacock works well as part of a longer evening: start or finish with a drink at Native Cocktail Room in the same building. The restaurant is a short drive from MI Road and the old city, and taxis and auto-rickshaws are easy to arrange for the return journey.
At 51 Hathroi Fort, Hari Kishan Somani Marg, off Ajmer Road.
Laal maas and mutton nihari are the dishes most diners choose.
Yes, the cocktail list includes an espresso martini and the house Peacock Collins.
The founders of Native Cocktail Room and Primitive, which share the same building.
Yes, including paneer kofta and jackfruit pepper fry.
It is an al fresco restaurant, so the cooler months are most comfortable.
Yes, there is a choice of mocktails.
It is moderately priced for a restaurant with this standard of food and drinks.
Attraction
Hilltop Rajput palace-fortress above Maota Lake in Amer, about 11 km from Jaipur, known for its courtyards, Sheesh Mahal mirror work and UNESCO-listed walls.
Bar
Blue-painted Italian bar and restaurant in the gardens of Narain Niwas Palace, opened in 2013, known for its murals, tented pavilions and evening cocktails.
Thing to do
The old city's jewellers' street near Hawa Mahal, lined with family-run shops selling gemstones, kundan and thewa jewellery in Jaipur's planned grid of pink shopfronts.
Hotel
Taj-run former royal residence built in 1835 as a guest house and hunting lodge, with 78 rooms and suites set in formal Mughal gardens south of…