Niros

Niros is one of the longest-running restaurants on MI Road, the main commercial street outside the old city walls. Dating back to around 1949, it has become a family institution for generations of Jaipur residents, the kind of place where families have long brought visiting friends and business guests. It sits at Panch Batti, a few steps from Raj Mandir Cinema.

The menu is long and covers North Indian, Chinese and continental cooking, a mix that has been part of its identity for years. For many regulars the dish to order is laal maas, the Rajasthani mutton curry in a fiery red gravy traditionally made with Mathania chillies. Niros' version is often named among the best in the city. Other well-liked choices include chicken seekh kebab, fish curry, daal gosht and chicken curry, eaten with breads or jeera rice. The Indo-Chinese side of the menu has its own followers, with chilli garlic noodles, crispy wontons and sweet and sour prawns.

Expect a busy room with plenty of local families, especially in the evenings, and a sense of a restaurant that has changed with the city rather than chasing trends. Reservations are recommended for weekend dinners and in the peak tourist season from October to March. Prices are in the middle to upper range for Jaipur, and ordering a few dishes to share lets you try more of the menu.

Niros suits groups and families who want a varied menu that keeps everyone happy, as well as travellers looking for a reliable, long-established address for a first taste of laal maas. Vegetarians will find plenty of choice, though the restaurant is best known for its meat dishes. Ask the staff how hot the laal maas is if you are wary of strong chilli.

Niros is also a useful address for a late lunch on a sightseeing day, as MI Road connects easily with the old city and the museums around Ram Niwas Garden. Its long history makes it a natural choice for a first taste of the city's restaurant culture.

Being on MI Road, Niros is convenient for an evening in central Jaipur. Pair dinner with a film at Raj Mandir Cinema around the corner, or with a visit to the Albert Hall Museum and Ram Niwas Garden, a short ride away. New Gate into the old city is also close by.