Restaurant
Suvarna Mahal at Rambagh Palace
Rambagh Palace's formal Indian dining room, set in a hall styled on an 18th-century palace ballroom and serving royal recipes from Rajasthan and beyond.
Civil Lines restaurant at Achrol House known for smoked dhungar laal maas, Rajasthani vegetarian dishes and evening puppet shows.
Good to know
Spice Court is in Achrol House on Jacob Road in Civil Lines, outside the walls of the old city. It has built its reputation on Rajasthani and North Indian cooking, and it draws both tourists and Jaipur locals. The restaurant is a good choice for anyone who wants to try regional dishes in a relaxed setting away from the traffic of the bazaars.
The dish most people come for is dhungar wala laal maas. Laal maas is the Rajasthani red mutton curry made with fiery Mathania chillies, and the dhungar version is finished with a smoky flavour that sets it apart. To start, there are hara bhara kebab and murg malai tikka, and the restaurant also has a reputation for Chinese-style appetisers.
Vegetarians have plenty of regional dishes to explore. Govind gatta is the royal form of gatte, gram-flour dumplings stuffed with mawa and dry fruits, named after Govind Dev ji and served in a yogurt-based gravy. Papad mangodi uses moong dal fritters and papad cooked with spices, and dal baati churma brings together lentils, baked wheat baati and sweet churma. Rogan josh and masala papad complete the picture, while desserts include seasonal halwa and kulfi.
In the evenings, local artists stage a puppet show at the restaurant, which makes dinner a particularly good option for families with children. Prices are moderate for a sit-down restaurant, and the setting is relaxed. Booking ahead is sensible for dinner in the busy winter season. Ask about chilli levels if you prefer milder food, as laal maas can be very hot.
The menu's mix of meat and vegetarian dishes makes it easy for a mixed group to order together, and the Chinese appetisers give children and less adventurous eaters a familiar alternative. It is a good place to try several Rajasthani specialities in one meal, from smoked laal maas to royal-style gatta.
Civil Lines is a short taxi or auto-rickshaw ride from MI Road and the old city. After dinner, the dessert shop Dzurt nearby is recommended for something sweet. Spice Court also suits a relaxed lunch between sights outside the walled city.
Its dhungar wala laal maas, a smoked version of Jaipur's classic red mutton curry.
In Achrol House on Jacob Road, Civil Lines.
Yes, local artists put on a puppet show in the evenings.
Govind gatta, papad mangodi and dal baati churma.
Yes, families enjoy the evening puppet show.
Laal maas can be very hot, so ask staff about chilli levels.
Seasonal halwa and kulfi.
Booking is sensible for dinner in the busy winter season.
Attraction
Hilltop Rajput palace-fortress above Maota Lake in Amer, about 11 km from Jaipur, known for its courtyards, Sheesh Mahal mirror work and UNESCO-listed walls.
Bar
Blue-painted Italian bar and restaurant in the gardens of Narain Niwas Palace, opened in 2013, known for its murals, tented pavilions and evening cocktails.
Thing to do
The old city's jewellers' street near Hawa Mahal, lined with family-run shops selling gemstones, kundan and thewa jewellery in Jaipur's planned grid of pink shopfronts.
Hotel
Taj-run former royal residence built in 1835 as a guest house and hunting lodge, with 78 rooms and suites set in formal Mughal gardens south of…