Kyani & Co.

Kyani and Co. is one of the last of Mumbai's traditional Irani cafes, the old-fashioned cafe-bakeries that are a much-loved part of the city's history. It is housed in the Jer Mahal Building on Jagannath Shankar Seth Road in Marine Lines, and it is now around 120 years old, which makes it the oldest Irani cafe still operating in the city. During the independence movement it served freedom fighters among its customers.

The appeal lies in how little has changed. The menu has barely moved in decades, and a visit is about the classics rather than anything new. Order bun maska with a cup of Irani chai, the pairing that defines a visit to any Irani cafe. For something more filling, there is mutton keema pav or a chicken cheese omelette. The bakery side of the business is worth a look too: try the cherry custard or the kaju nankhatai, and consider taking some home.

The cafe opens early, which makes it a good place for breakfast before a day of sightseeing in South Mumbai. It suits budget travellers, solo visitors and anyone interested in the city's social history, and the prices are modest. The simple, familiar food is also easy for younger eaters. If you are new to Irani cafes, the best approach is to order a little of everything: something savoury, something sweet and a pot of chai to share. Look at the glass cases near the counter before you sit down, as the baked goods on display change through the day and are easy to point to if you are unsure of the names.

Treat it as a place for a meal rather than a long working session. Allow 30 to 45 minutes. It closes in the early evening, and earlier on Sundays, so plan to visit in the morning or around lunch.

Kyani is close to Marine Drive, so it makes a good starting point for a walk along the seafront, and it is a short taxi ride from Crawford Market and Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus. Mumbai's other surviving Irani cafes, such as Merwan and Co. near Grant Road station and Britannia and Co. in Ballard Estate, make it possible to build a small tour of the city's cafe heritage over a couple of days.