Café
Kyani & Co.
Around 120 years old and described as Mumbai's oldest operating Irani cafe, serving bun maska, Irani chai, keema pav and cherry custard near Marine Lines.
A busy Matunga cafe serving South Indian breakfasts and lunches, from fluffy idli with sambar to benne pessarettu dosa and pineapple sheera.
Good to know
Cafe Madras is a South Indian vegetarian cafe on Bhaudaji Road in Matunga, in central Mumbai. It is one of the city's favourite places for a South Indian breakfast or lunch, and locals cross Mumbai to eat here, especially at weekends.
The menu is built around the classics. Start with steamed idli, which here are light and slightly grainy, served with hot sambar and coconut chutney, or try idli with butter and podi, a spiced powder. The benne pessarettu dosa, folded over a spiced potato masala, is a popular choice, and the sheera, a sweet semolina dish made with plenty of ghee and chunks of fresh pineapple, is a good way to finish.
The dining room is crowded, with marbled walls, and you will often share a table with strangers. It is an excellent place for vegetarians and vegans, a good option for budget travellers, and an easy introduction to South Indian food for children, who usually enjoy idli and dosa.
Breakfast and lunch are the main draws. Expect a wait for a table, particularly at weekends, when families come from across the city; weekday mornings are the best time to avoid the longest queue. Allow 45 minutes to an hour including any wait. Walk-ins are welcome, so there is no need to plan far ahead. Prices are low for the quality of the food. Ordering is simple: decide quickly, as the staff are busy, and do not be shy about asking for more chutney or sambar. If you are with a group, order a few different dishes for the table, as the idli, dosa and sheera each show a different side of the kitchen.
For first-timers, it helps to know that the best way to eat idli and dosa is with your right hand, tearing off pieces and dipping them in sambar and chutney, although you can always ask if you would prefer cutlery.
The cafe sits on a tree-lined stretch of Matunga. It is a useful stop if you are heading north from South Mumbai towards the suburbs, or visiting the Shree Siddhivinayak Temple in Prabhadevi or eating Malvani food at Chaitanya in Dadar later in the day. Taxis can drop you outside, and the surrounding streets reward a short walk after breakfast.
South Indian vegetarian dishes such as idli, dosa and sheera.
Idli with sambar and chutney, the benne pessarettu dosa and pineapple sheera.
No. Walk-ins are welcome.
Yes. Idli and dosa are usually easy dishes for children to enjoy.
At weekends, when people travel from across the city; expect a wait.
Yes. Breakfast and lunch are the main draws.
Often, as the dining room is busy and tables are shared.
Call +91 22 2401 4419.
Bar
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Attraction
The 1924 basalt arch on the Apollo Bunder waterfront, built to mark a royal visit and now the departure point for Elephanta ferries.
Thing to do
A three-kilometre seafront promenade curving from Nariman Point to Girgaum Chowpatty beach, best walked at sunset when the Queen's Necklace lights come on.
Tour operator
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