Britannia & Co.

Britannia and Co. has been serving Parsi and Irani food in Wakefield House, opposite the New Custom House in Ballard Estate, since 1923. It was founded by Rashid Kohinoor, and for decades it was run by his son, the late Boman Kohinoor. The cafe historically fed British officers, and today it draws office workers, food lovers and visitors from around the world.

The dining room has changed very little over the years, with bentwood furniture that was imported from Poland and a cheerful atmosphere. Look out for the cutout of Prince William and Catherine on display in the room.

The dish that everyone comes for is the berry pulao, made with barberries imported from Iran. The recipe came from Boman's wife, Bachan Kohinoor, and it is still made to her method. Other favourites include salli boti and dhansak, both Parsi classics. Finish with the caramel custard, another closely guarded house recipe, and order a raspberry soda with the meal.

Britannia is a lunch place. It has traditionally opened only around the middle of the day from Monday to Saturday and stays closed on Sundays, so plan your visit for a weekday or Saturday lunchtime and check the current hours before setting out. It suits families, groups and anyone curious about Parsi food, and portions are generous. Arriving early in the lunch service helps if you want to avoid a wait. Allow about an hour.

Ballard Estate is a business district on the edge of the Fort, and Britannia is a short taxi ride or a pleasant walk from Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus and Horniman Circle, and it fits easily into a morning of sightseeing in the Fort followed by a long lunch. A good plan is to spend the morning at the terminus or in the Kala Ghoda galleries, then arrive for an early lunch.

If you are new to Parsi food, ask the staff to guide you through the menu, and consider ordering two or three dishes to share rather than one each, so that everyone at the table can try the berry pulao alongside the curries. It is worth checking the current opening days by phone before making a special trip, particularly around public holidays.