Chandni Chowk

Chandni Chowk is the spine of Old Delhi, the street that runs west from the Red Fort to the Fatehpuri Masjid through the heart of the walled city that Shah Jahan built. It was designed in 1650 by his daughter, Princess Jahanara Begum. Its name means moonlit square: a pool at its centre reflected the moon, and a shallow water channel once ran down the middle of the street. The canals were filled in after 1857, and a clock tower replaced the pool in the 1870s.

In 2021 the first phase of a long-delayed redevelopment was completed, pedestrianising the main stretch between the Red Fort and the Fatehpuri Masjid during daylight hours. Walking the length of it now is far easier than it once was, though the side lanes remain as crowded as ever.

The main street is lined with places of worship from several faiths. Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib marks the place where the Sikh Guru Tegh Bahadur and his followers were executed in 1675; the present building dates from 1930. The Sri Digambar Jain Lal Mandir was established in 1656, and the Gauri Shankar Temple is linked by legend with the Maratha general Appa Gangadhar. The Fatehpuri Masjid, built in 1650 by one of Shah Jahan's queens, closes the western end, and the Town Hall, built by the British in 1863, is another landmark along the way.

The real interest lies in the bazaars that branch off the main road, each with its own character. Dariba Kalan is the silver and gold jewellery lane, while Kinari Bazaar is known for khurchan, a rich milk sweet, and for the 18th-century Jain mansions of Naughara Gali nearby. Khari Baoli, at the western end, is Asia's largest spice market, where sacks of chillies, turmeric and dried fruit are piled high. Paranthe Wali Gali, whose paratha shops were established between 1875 and 1886, is the obvious place to stop for a stuffed, fried flatbread.

Go in the morning, before the heat and crowds build. Wear comfortable shoes, keep valuables secure, and be ready for narrow, uneven lanes and constant activity. A guided food or heritage walk is the easiest way to find the best stalls and understand what you are seeing, and cycle rickshaws are a practical way to cover the longer distances. Agree rickshaw fares before you set off.

Chandni Chowk has its own metro station, and the Red Fort and the Jama Masjid are at its eastern end, so a half day here can take in the main monuments of Old Delhi as well as its markets.