Haveli Dharampura

Haveli Dharampura offers something unusual among Delhi's hotels: the chance to stay inside a restored traditional mansion in the lanes of Old Delhi. The haveli was brought back from near-dereliction and converted into a boutique hotel, and the restoration was recognised with a UNESCO Asia-Pacific Award for Cultural Heritage Conservation. Staying here puts you in the middle of the old walled city that Shah Jahan built, rather than looking at it from a distance.

Room categories carry names that reflect the building's Mughal-era setting: the Jharoka Rooms, the Diwan-e-Khas rooms and the Shahjahan Suites. Expect heritage character rather than international-chain uniformity, and enjoy the details of a building that has been carefully conserved rather than rebuilt.

The hotel's restaurant is called Lakhori. In the evenings the haveli hosts cultural programmes that make an Old Delhi stay especially memorable, including classical kathak dance, live kathak with dinner, ghazal nights and live classical music with dinner. A kites and high tea experience offers panoramic views over the rooftops of Old Delhi, a reminder of how the old city looks from above.

Getting there is part of the adventure. The haveli is in Gali Guliyan in Dharampura, in the lanes near the Jama Masjid, and the hotel gives the Jama Masjid Police Station as the drop-off point for cars and taxis. Travel light, and contact the hotel before arrival to arrange help with luggage and directions through the lanes.

It suits travellers interested in history and architecture, couples and anyone who wants to wake up in the heart of the old city, with the Jama Masjid, the Red Fort and Chandni Chowk all close by. Those who prefer wide roads, car access to the door and a large modern hotel will be happier in New Delhi.

Book through the website, by phone or by email, and ask about the evening programme when you reserve, since the performances are a highlight of a stay. Non-residents interested in dinner at Lakhori or one of the cultural evenings should contact the hotel to ask about availability. Staying at least two nights gives you time to explore Old Delhi on foot at different times of day, early morning being especially rewarding.