Jama Masjid

The Jama Masjid, also known as Masjid-i-Jahan-Numa, is the principal mosque of Old Delhi and one of the largest in India. It was built for the emperor Shah Jahan as the congregational mosque of his new capital, Shahjahanabad, and inaugurated in July 1656. It stands on raised ground across from the Red Fort, surrounded by the lanes and markets of Chandni Chowk.

The mosque is approached by broad flights of steps leading to three gateways. The eastern gate, three storeys high, was the royal entrance, while the northern and southern gates have two storeys. Inside, the courtyard measures at least 99 metres on each side and can hold 25,000 worshippers. Two minarets, each 41 metres tall with 130 steps, rise from the north-east and south-east corners. The building is mainly red sandstone, with white and black marble used for decorative inlay.

This is a working mosque, used daily and filled for Friday prayers and Eid, so plan your visit outside prayer times. Dress modestly with arms and legs covered, and expect to remove your shoes before entering the courtyard. The stone can get very hot underfoot in summer, so socks help, and a scarf is useful for covering up. Ask at the gate about current rules for photography before taking pictures.

Allow 45 minutes to an hour. Late afternoon is a good time, when the courtyard is cooler and the light falls on the red sandstone. Take time to walk the full width of the courtyard and look back at the gateways and the Red Fort beyond.

The streets around the mosque are among the most rewarding in the city for food, with kebab grills, biryani stalls and sweet shops in the surrounding lanes. Karim's, one of Delhi's best-known Mughlai restaurants, is close by.

The Red Fort is a short walk east, and Chandni Chowk's main street runs nearby, so the mosque fits naturally into a half day in Old Delhi. Cycle rickshaws are the easiest way to move around the area's narrow lanes, and agreeing the fare before you set off avoids misunderstandings. Going with a local guide or on an organised walk is a good way to make sense of the area on a first visit.