Thing to do
Rainbow Street
One of Amman's oldest streets, running east from First Circle through Jabal Amman with cafés, rooftop restaurants, craft showrooms and city views.
A half-day trip from Amman to Madaba, the City of Mosaics, to see the sixth-century mosaic map of the Holy Land in the Greek Orthodox Church of St George.
Good to know
Madaba, a short drive south-west of Amman, is known as the City of Mosaics, and its most famous treasure is the Madaba Map, laid into the floor of the Greek Orthodox Church of St George. The mosaic dates from the sixth century AD; because it shows the New Church of the Theotokos in Jerusalem, dedicated in 542, but no buildings put up after 570, it is dated to between those years. Remnants were first noticed in the 1880s when the new church was being prepared, and the full mosaic came to light in 1896.
The map originally measured about 21 by 7 metres and survives today at roughly 16 by 5 metres, and it is oriented east, towards the altar, rather than north. It covers an area from Lebanon to the Nile Delta, with Jerusalem at its centre, and shows the Jordan River, the Dead Sea, Kerak and some 150 towns and villages, all labelled in Greek. Its estimated 700,000 to 800,000 tesserae make it worth taking time over the details, especially Jerusalem, shown as the centre of the world.
The church is a working place of worship, so dress modestly, keep your voice low and avoid visiting during services. Allow around 30 minutes for the church itself, and consider hiring a local guide, as the labels on the map are easier to understand with someone pointing them out.
Madaba has more mosaics to see. The Archaeological Park near the visitors' centre, created in 1991, includes the Roman road, the Hippolytus Hall, the Church of the Virgin Mary and a mosaic exhibition. The Madaba Institute for Mosaic Art trains restorers, and Hussein bin Ali Street, known as Tourist Street, is lined with shops selling mosaics and crafts. The Madaba Visitors' Centre, in a renovated nineteenth-century house, is open seven days a week.
Madaba suits history and art lovers, pilgrims and anyone heading south from Amman. Most visitors come by taxi, private driver or organised tour and combine the town with Mount Nebo, a short drive away, in a half or full day, sometimes continuing to Ma'in Hot Springs, about 37 kilometres from Madaba.
A sixth-century mosaic map of the Holy Land on the floor of St George's Church in Madaba.
It dates from between AD 542 and 570.
It survives at about 16 by 5 metres, from an original of around 21 by 7 metres.
An area from Lebanon to the Nile Delta, centred on Jerusalem, with the Jordan River, the Dead Sea and about 150 places labelled in Greek.
About 30 minutes for the church, and a half day for Madaba and Mount Nebo.
The Archaeological Park, the Madaba Institute for Mosaic Art and craft shops on Tourist Street.
Modest clothing, as the church is a working place of worship.
+962 5 325 3097.
Bar
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Attraction
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Tour operator
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Restaurant
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