Jerash Archaeological City

Jerash, the ancient Gerasa, is the most popular day trip from Amman and one of the best-preserved Greco-Roman cities anywhere outside Italy. It lies about 48 kilometres north of the capital, and people have lived here for more than 6,500 years. The city was conquered by Pompey in 63 BC and became one of the Decapolis cities of the Roman east, before a devastating earthquake in 749 destroyed much of it. The modern town spreads to the east of the river that once divided the ancient city in two.

Most visits begin at Hadrian's Arch, built in AD 129 to mark the emperor's visit, and pass the long hippodrome, which could seat around 15,000 spectators. Beyond lies the Oval Plaza, about 90 by 80 metres and ringed by first-century Ionic columns, which leads into the Cardo Maximus, the 800-metre colonnaded main street whose original paving still shows the ruts of chariot wheels. Along the Cardo are the Nymphaeum, a fountain of AD 191 where water once poured from seven lion heads, and the cathedral, built in the fourth century over a temple of Dionysus. The Temple of Artemis is another highlight. The South Theatre, built between AD 90 and 92 and seating more than 3,000, still hosts performances, and the smaller North Theatre lies at the far end.

The visitors' centre has information on the sites, and the archaeological museum displays finds from the Neolithic to the Mamluk period. Admission to the archaeological city is included in the Jordan Pass. Every summer, usually from late July into early August, the Jerash Festival for Culture and Arts brings music, theatre and folklore to the ancient venues, and the Roman Army and Chariot Experience stages a show with legionaries, gladiator fights and chariot races; check its schedule before you go.

Jerash suits history lovers, families and photographers, and is easy to see at your own pace. Allow at least three to four hours, as the site is large and walking from end to end takes time. There is little shade, so bring water, sun protection and good shoes, and aim for the morning or late afternoon in summer.

The drive from Amman takes roughly an hour, depending on traffic. Most visitors go by taxi, private driver or organised tour, and many tours from Amman combine Jerash with other northern sights on a full day out.