Attraction
Amman Citadel
Amman's oldest inhabited hill, crowned by the Roman Temple of Hercules, an Umayyad palace, a Byzantine church and wide views over Downtown.
A contemporary art centre for the Arab world, set in six restored 1920s and 1930s houses with gardens and ancient ruins overlooking Downtown.
Good to know
Darat al Funun, the Khalid Shoman Foundation's home for the arts, is one of the most rewarding places in Amman for anyone interested in modern and contemporary Arab art. Its story goes back to 1988, and it now occupies six restored buildings and warehouses from the 1920s and 1930s on the slope of Jabal al-Weibdeh, looking across the valley to the Citadel and Downtown.
The setting is half the attraction. The houses are linked by gardens, and an archaeological site in the grounds, excavated from 1993 onwards, reveals layers of the city's past. Inside, rotating exhibitions show work by artists from across the Arab world, drawn partly from the Khalid Shoman Collection, which includes pieces by more than 140 artists in many media. There is also a research library and archive, and a programme of talks, film screenings, workshops and residencies, including a summer academy.
Darat al Funun suits culturally curious travellers, couples and anyone who wants a quiet break from traffic. Allow an hour or so to see the current exhibitions and wander the gardens, longer if a talk or screening is on. Check the website for the current programme before visiting, since what is on show changes through the year. The centre also offers a virtual tour online, which is a useful way to see the layout before you go. Because the exhibitions change, repeat visits on a longer stay can be just as rewarding as the first, and evening talks or film screenings are a good way to meet Amman's arts community. The centre is open from Saturday to Thursday between 10:00 and 19:00, closes at 15:00 during Ramadan, and closes for the whole of August and on public holidays.
There are two entrances: the main one on Nadeem al Mallah Street, and an upper entrance on Mohammad Ali al Saadi Street. The centre is a few minutes from King Faisal Street in Downtown, and close to Paris Circle in Jabal al-Weibdeh, a neighbourhood of old stone houses, small galleries and cafés. It pairs naturally with the Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts, a short taxi ride away, and with coffee in one of the neighbourhood cafés afterwards.
Saturday to Thursday, 10:00 to 19:00. It is closed on Fridays, in August and on public holidays.
Yes, it closes at 15:00 during Ramadan.
Rotating exhibitions of contemporary Arab art, historic houses, gardens and an archaeological site.
The main entrance is at 13 Nadeem al Mallah Street, with an upper entrance on Mohammad Ali al Saadi Street.
About an hour, or longer if a talk or film is on.
Yes, a research library and archive.
By phone on +962 6 464 3251 or by email at [email protected].
Paris Circle in Jabal al-Weibdeh, King Faisal Street in Downtown and the Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts.
Bar
An izakaya-style wine bar hidden behind 13C, Amman's largest wine and spirits shop, pairing flights, cocktails and small plates on a cosy patio.
Tour operator
A cook-and-dine experience in a family home in Jabal al-Weibdeh, where local hajjehs teach guests to prepare and share a seasonal Arabic meal.
Restaurant
An elegant Levantine restaurant in a restored Jabal Amman villa, open since 1997 and known for its kibbeh, mezze and attentive, old-school hospitality.
Hotel
A five-star hotel on Fifth Circle, high on one of Amman's seven hills, with a spa using Dead Sea ingredients, a seasonal pool and La Capitale…