Attraction
Roman Theatre
A 2nd-century Roman theatre cut into the hillside of Downtown Amman, seating around 6,000 people and still used for concerts and festivals.
Amman's oldest inhabited hill, crowned by the Roman Temple of Hercules, an Umayyad palace, a Byzantine church and wide views over Downtown.
Good to know
The Citadel occupies Jabal al-Qal'a, the L-shaped hill that rises above Downtown Amman, and it is the best place to understand how old this city really is. People have lived here since the Neolithic period, the hill was fortified in the Bronze Age, and it later served as the capital of the Ammonite kingdom before passing through Assyrian, Babylonian, Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine and Umayyad hands. Much of the hill has still not been excavated, which gives the site an open, unfinished feel.
The most photographed structure is the Great Temple, usually called the Temple of Hercules, a Roman temple thought to date from around AD 161 to 166. Its surviving columns frame a view across the valley, and fragments of a colossal statue were found nearby, although which deity the temple honoured is still debated. Further along the hill is the Umayyad Palace complex, built under Caliph Hisham ibn Abd al-Malik in the eighth century, with an audience hall, assembly rooms, a colonnaded street and a large cistern, in a style that blends Byzantine, Sassanian and early Islamic ideas. A sixth-century Byzantine church with traces of its mosaic floor stands close by, along with an Ayyubid watchtower.
The small Jordan Archaeological Museum, opened on the hill in 1951, displays finds from prehistoric times to the fifteenth century. Some of its most important pieces have moved to the newer Jordan Museum, so it works best as a compact introduction rather than a full collection. Allow around two hours for the hill and the museum together.
The site suits anyone with an interest in history and photography, and the views make it worthwhile even for those who are not. Paths are uneven and there is little shade, so bring water, a hat and sturdy shoes, especially in summer. Late afternoon is a pleasant time to visit, when the heat eases and the low light suits photographs of the city spread across its hills.
The Citadel is a steep climb from Downtown, so many visitors take a taxi up and walk down afterwards. The Roman Theatre sits directly below the hill, and the souks, Hashem Restaurant and Habibah Sweets are a short walk away, which makes it easy to combine the Citadel with a half day in the old centre.
On Jabal al-Qal'a, the hill directly above Downtown Amman and the Roman Theatre.
The Temple of Hercules, the Umayyad Palace complex, a Byzantine church, an Ayyubid watchtower, a large Umayyad cistern and the Jordan Archaeological Museum.
The hill has been inhabited since the Neolithic period and was fortified in the Bronze Age, around 1800 BC.
Around two hours covers the main ruins and the small museum.
Very little, so bring water and a hat, particularly in summer.
Most visitors take a taxi up the hill, as the walk from Downtown is steep, and walk down afterwards.
The Roman Theatre, the Downtown souks, Hashem Restaurant and Habibah Sweets are all a short walk below the hill.
Yes, as a short introduction. It opened in 1951 and covers finds from prehistory to the fifteenth century.
Bar
An izakaya-style wine bar hidden behind 13C, Amman's largest wine and spirits shop, pairing flights, cocktails and small plates on a cosy patio.
Tour operator
A cook-and-dine experience in a family home in Jabal al-Weibdeh, where local hajjehs teach guests to prepare and share a seasonal Arabic meal.
Restaurant
An elegant Levantine restaurant in a restored Jabal Amman villa, open since 1997 and known for its kibbeh, mezze and attentive, old-school hospitality.
Hotel
A five-star hotel on Fifth Circle, high on one of Amman's seven hills, with a spa using Dead Sea ingredients, a seasonal pool and La Capitale…