Thien Hau Temple

Thien Hau Temple is the best-known temple in Cholon, the historic Chinese quarter of Ho Chi Minh City. It was first built around 1760 by the city's Cantonese community and is dedicated to Mazu, the Chinese goddess of the sea and protector of fishermen and sailors, who is honoured in Vietnamese as Thien Hau, the Empress of Heaven. For the Chinese merchants who settled in Cholon, many of whom had arrived by sea, she was a natural patron.

The temple is set around courtyards, and the first thing most visitors notice is the roof, which is decorated with small porcelain figures showing scenes from Chinese religion and legend. Inside, incense burners stand throughout the courtyard and around the altars, and the main altar holds the statue of Thien Hau. Worshippers come and go, lighting incense and leaving offerings, and the temple is a working place of worship rather than a museum.

The temple's biggest day is the goddess's birthday, on the 23rd day of the third lunar month, when her main statue is taken from the altar and carried in procession through the streets of Cholon. It is a lively occasion, but expect crowds, so choose an ordinary day if you prefer to look around at leisure.

Entry is free. Dress modestly and be respectful of people at prayer; photography is usually tolerated in the courtyards, but be discreet near the altars. Allow 30 to 45 minutes for the temple itself. The incense smoke can be strong, so anyone sensitive to it may want to spend more time in the open courtyards.

For visitors, Thien Hau Temple is also an introduction to the history of Cholon, which grew as the commercial centre of the Chinese community in southern Vietnam. The temple is still associated with the Quang Trieu, or Cantonese, assembly hall, one of several guild temples that served the different Chinese communities of the city. Seeing it before visiting Binh Tay Market helps put the area's trading history in context.

Cholon is around 5 kilometres west of central District 1, so most visitors arrive by taxi or ride-hailing motorbike. The temple fits well into a half day exploring Cholon, which the national tourism board recommends seeing on foot, together with Binh Tay Market, the area's large trading market.