Thing to do
Ben Thanh Market
The covered market of central Saigon, in its clock-towered building since 1914, selling food, coffee, crafts and clothing, with a night market on the streets outside.
Cholon's great trading market, opened in 1930 in an East Asian-style building with a central courtyard, and still a working hub for traders from across the south.
Good to know
Binh Tay Market is the commercial heart of Cholon, the historic Chinese quarter of Ho Chi Minh City, and a far less touristy experience than Ben Thanh. Construction began in 1928 and the market opened in 1930. It is associated with Quach Dam, a wealthy Chinese businessman who is credited with building or financing it, and the building is classified as an architectural monument. The national tourism board describes it as a large wholesale trading centre, and it remains a working hub for traders, including farmers and merchants from across southern Vietnam.
The building is laid out in an East Asian style around a central courtyard, covering about 2.5 hectares, with a footprint of roughly 89 by 109 metres. A fountain once stood at the centre, with bronze dragons spouting water. The market was renovated in 1992 and again between 2016 and 2018. Four bronze lions were recorded as still standing in 2007. The rooftops and courtyard are photogenic, and the scale of the place gives a real sense of Cholon's importance as a trading district.
Most stalls sell in bulk to shopkeepers and restaurants, so it is more a place to watch the trade than to shop for souvenirs, although you can buy small quantities of dried goods, snacks and household items. Mornings are generally the busiest time for trading, and the best time to see the market at work.
Keep to the side of the aisles so that traders can move their goods, and ask before photographing people. The market is hot and crowded in the middle of the day, so bring water and wear comfortable shoes. Allow an hour for the market, and more if you plan to explore the surrounding streets.
Binh Tay is around 6 kilometres west of central District 1, so most visitors come by taxi or ride-hailing motorbike, often combining the market with Thien Hau Temple and other Chinese temples in the area. The national tourism board recommends exploring Cholon on foot, and a morning spent between the market and the temples is one of the best ways to see a different side of the city.
Construction began in 1928 and the market opened in 1930.
It is mainly a wholesale market, so it is better for watching the trade, though some small purchases are possible.
In the morning, when trading is at its busiest.
At 57A Thap Muoi Street in Cholon, west of central Ho Chi Minh City.
By taxi or ride-hailing from District 1, which is around 6 kilometres away.
Yes, in 1992 and again between 2016 and 2018.
About an hour for the market, longer if you explore the surrounding streets.
Thien Hau Temple and a walk around the streets of Cholon.
Restaurant
Chef Peter Cuong Franklin's Michelin-starred restaurant in a narrow tube house in the Old Market, reworking Vietnamese street food with modern technique.
Bar
One of the city's longest-running rooftop bars, on level 26 of AB Tower, with 360-degree views, DJ nights and a strictly enforced dress code.
Café
The flagship café of Marou, the Vietnamese bean-to-bar chocolate maker founded in 2011, serving chocolate drinks, cakes and French-style pastries on Calmette Street.
Hotel
An opulent five-star hotel in the Times Square Building between Nguyen Hue and Dong Khoi, home to the Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant Long Trieu.