Hoa Lo Prison

Hoa Lo Prison is one of the most affecting places to visit in Hanoi. The French colonial authorities built it between 1896 and 1901 and called it the Maison Centrale, and it was intended mainly for Vietnamese political prisoners, many of them campaigners for independence. The Vietnamese name, Hoa Lo, is usually translated as fiery furnace and comes from the village of stove and pottery makers that once stood on the site. Authorities designated what remains a historic monument in 1997.

The prison was overcrowded for much of its history. A renovation in 1913 raised its capacity from 460 to 600 inmates, yet by 1954 it held more than 2,000. Most of the complex was demolished in 1993 and 1994 to make way for the Hanoi Towers development, but the gatehouse and part of the prison survive as a museum. The displays focus mainly on the French colonial period, with the guillotine room and its original equipment, and the cramped quarters where male and female Vietnamese political prisoners were held. The women's section tells the story of Nguyen Thi Quang Thai, the first wife of General Vo Nguyen Giap, who was held here until her death. Another display recalls the escape of 1951, when 17 prisoners on death row fled through the sewers and five survived to rejoin the resistance. A tropical almond tree in the courtyard is remembered for the food, medicine and carving material it gave prisoners.

During the American war the prison held US airmen, who gave it the ironic nickname the Hanoi Hilton. The first, Everett Alvarez Jr, arrived after being shot down in August 1964. This period occupies a single room, and its presentation has been criticised by American veterans for playing down the prisoners' experiences, so it is worth reading around the subject before or after your visit.

The museum is open from 8am to 5pm every day, including public holidays. Allow an hour to an hour and a half. On Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings a guided night tour called Sacred Night starts at 7pm and lasts about 90 minutes, ending with tea, a pastry and a jelly made from the almond tree's leaves. Some of the content is harrowing, so think carefully before bringing younger children.

The prison stands at 1 Hoa Lo Street in Cua Nam Ward, in the centre of the city near the French Quarter. It combines well with St Joseph's Cathedral and the Vietnamese Women's Museum on a walking day south and west of Hoan Kiem Lake. Contact the museum on +84 24 3934 2253 or at [email protected].