Old Medina of Casablanca

Casablanca's old medina is small and unpolished compared with those of Fez or Marrakech, which is exactly why many visitors enjoy it. This is the historic core from which the modern city grew. After the earthquake of 1755 damaged the earlier town, Sultan Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdallah rebuilt it around 1770 and gave it the name Dar El-Beïda, the White House. Ramparts six to eight metres high still enclose much of it on a perimeter of about four kilometres.

Eight gates pierce the walls, and Bab Marrakech is the main entrance. Inside, the medina divides into three parts: the central area, once home to the caïd, consulates, markets and mosques; a quarter where Muslim, Jewish and European families lived side by side; and the tnaker, a popular neighbourhood of narrow lanes. Look out for the shrines of Sidi Allal Kairouani, linked by local legend to the city's name, and Sidi Bou Smara, the alleys of the old mellah, the restored Ettedgui Synagogue and the former Spanish church of San Buenaventura, now a cultural centre. On the seaward side, the Sqala bastion, part of the 18th-century fortifications, is a good place to finish.

Shopping here is practical rather than decorative. Bazaars along the outer ramparts sell djellabas, handicrafts and everyday goods, and an area known as Little Dakar trades products from across Africa. Near the entrances, stalls ladle out snails in a spicy broth, a classic Casablanca street snack. Bargaining is expected, though pressure on shoppers is generally lighter than in the big tourist medinas.

The medina suits independent travellers, photographers and anyone curious about the everyday life of the city. Allow one to two hours, longer if you sit down for tea. Mornings are calm as the shops open, while evenings bring lit streets and more people. The lanes can be confusing, so use a map on your phone or hire a licensed guide, keep valuables secure and dress modestly. Some lanes are uneven and unsuitable for wheelchairs.

The medina lies between the port, Boulevard Mohammed V and the seafront. Casa Port station and the Central Market are a short walk away, and the Hassan II Mosque is about twenty minutes on foot along the coast. Rick's Café and La Sqala restaurant are both on the medina's edge, making it easy to pair a walk with lunch or dinner.