Kopun

Kopun takes its name from the capon, a rooster raised for the table, a traditional dish of the Dubrovnik area and the speciality of the house. The restaurant has built its reputation on reviving traditional recipes of the Dubrovnik region and presenting them in a way that appeals to today's diners, combining old and contemporary cooking on the same menu. It is one of the best places in the Old Town to taste dishes you are unlikely to find elsewhere.

Start with the capon itself, roasted in the traditional manner, and consider šporki makaruli, a historic pasta dish of the region whose name translates roughly as dirty macaroni, a reference to its rich meat sauce. The rest of the menu includes local seafood and meat dishes, so there is plenty for those who prefer something more familiar. Croatian wines suit the food well.

The setting adds to the appeal. Kopun's tables are set out on Poljana Ruđera Boškovića, a small square beside the Jesuit church, partly shaded by old, gnarled trees. It feels a little removed from the crowds of Stradun, even though it is only a few minutes away, and is particularly pleasant in the evening. The square is reached by stepped lanes, so it is not ideal for wheelchair users.

The restaurant is open from morning until late evening in season. Booking is recommended for dinner in summer, particularly if you want a table outside. Winter opening can be limited in the Old Town, so check with the restaurant before planning a visit between November and March.

Prices are in the middle to upper range. Allow one and a half to two hours. After dinner, walk down the Baroque staircase to Gundulić Square or continue to the cathedral and the Rector's Palace, all within a few minutes of the restaurant. Kopun is a good choice for travellers interested in the culinary history of the Republic, and for anyone who wants a menu that feels rooted in place. Ordering the signature capon and a traditional pasta to share is a simple way to sample both sides of the menu in one sitting.