Grillmarkaðurinn

Grillmarkaðurinn, the Grill Market, is an upmarket restaurant on Lækjargata in central Reykjavik, close to Lækjartorg square. Its philosophy is simple: work closely with Icelandic farmers, buy most of the main produce directly from farms and cook it with fire, smoke, wood and charcoal, using a charcoal grill and a Japanese-style robata.

The dining room is designed to reflect Icelandic nature, with driftwood, basalt columns and fish leather used throughout, setting the scene for a long dinner. On the à la carte menu you will find snacks and small plates followed by grilled mains. Beef comes from Hvammur, where the cattle are fed on ale, and the cut changes daily; the signature 1,000-gram GM Steak and a tomahawk are both made for sharing between two. Game is a feature, with reindeer and, in season, puffin, and fish lovers can choose Arctic char, cod or land-farmed salmon.

If you would rather let the kitchen decide, the tasting menu brings a changing selection of the chefs' dishes for a minimum of two people. There is also Sveitaferð, meaning trip to the countryside, a three-course menu with a vegetarian version, and groups of ten or more choose from group menus. Gift cards can be bought online.

Grillmarkaðurinn is open for dinner only, from 17:30 every day, with the last seating at 21:30 from Sunday to Thursday and 22:00 on Friday and Saturday. Book ahead online through Dineout or by phone, particularly for weekends and in summer. It suits couples, groups of friends and meat lovers, and the vegetarian set menu makes it workable for mixed groups.

Prices are at the upper end of the Reykjavik scale, as at most restaurants built around premium Icelandic meat and fish, so check the menu online before you go if you are on a budget. Sharing a few small plates and one larger dish is a good way to try more of the menu without over-ordering.

The restaurant is in the heart of the old town, a couple of minutes from Lækjartorg, Austurvöllur square and Tjörnin, and close to many of the central hotels and bars, so it is easy to continue the evening with a drink nearby. Allow two hours or more for dinner, especially if you choose the tasting menu.