Nolio

Nolio has been making Neapolitan pizza on Krakowska Street in Kazimierz for around a decade. The restaurant is registered with the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, the Naples-based association that sets the rules for traditional Neapolitan pizza, and it says its pizza is made in full accordance with Italian tradition. At the same time it describes itself as not quite an Italian restaurant, preferring the idea of a kitchen inspired by Italy.

The commitment shows in the sourcing. Nolio imports about ninety per cent of the ingredients for its dishes and almost all of its wines from Italy, and while it once brought in only certified products, it now chooses small producers for flavour and method. Alongside the pizza the menu offers other Italian-inspired plates, and the wine list is almost entirely Italian. A margherita is the natural benchmark for judging the kitchen, and it is worth leaving room for one of the other dishes on the menu to see the wider cooking.

The atmosphere is relaxed, suiting couples, groups of friends and families. Pizza makes it an easy choice with children, and the location in Kazimierz makes it handy for an early dinner before heading out to the district's bars. It is also a good option for anyone who has eaten Polish food for several days and wants a change. Wine lovers will appreciate the chance to drink Italian bottles chosen by the same people who select the food. The restaurant marks its tenth anniversary on its website, a sign of how well it has settled into the neighbourhood.

Opening hours are from 16:00 to 22:00 from Monday to Wednesday, 16:00 to 23:00 on Thursday and Friday, and 13:00 to 23:00 at weekends, so weekday lunch is not an option. Tables for up to four people can be booked through the form on the website; larger parties should book by phone, and groups are handled by email. Booking is a good idea on Friday and Saturday evenings.

Krakowska Street runs through Kazimierz, so Nolio is within a short walk of the district's synagogues, cafés and bars, which makes it a convenient starting point for an evening there.