Hviids Vinstue

Hviids Vinstue calls itself Copenhagen's oldest wine tavern, and it has stood on the corner of Kongens Nytorv and Lille Kongensgade since 1723. In almost 300 years it has survived the great fires of 1728 and 1795, the British bombardment of 1807 and two world wars, and the basement rooms reportedly kept serving drinks through some of those disasters. The tavern takes its name from Ernst Hviid, a wine merchant who took it over in the late 19th century.

Stepping inside is like entering another century. The rooms are dark and cosy, with dark wood, candlelight and walls covered with paintings and decorative objects, including portraits of actors and artists from the Royal Danish Theatre across the square, who have been regulars for generations. The atmosphere is authentic and unpolished, and that is exactly its appeal.

Hviids is especially famous for its gløgg, the Danish version of mulled wine, which it begins serving every year on 11 November at 11:00. The start of gløgg season draws crowds and is something of a Copenhagen tradition, and the tavern is busy through the run-up to Christmas. At other times of year, it is a place for a cold Danish beer, a glass of wine or a simple open sandwich in a historic setting.

The tavern suits anyone curious about old Copenhagen, from couples to groups of friends and solo travellers, and it is a good stop before or after a performance at the Royal Danish Theatre. It can get crowded in the evenings and in December, so come in the afternoon if you want a seat. Check the tavern's website or call ahead for current opening hours before making a special trip.

Hviids Vinstue is on Kongens Nytorv, opposite the Royal Danish Theatre, a few steps from Kongens Nytorv metro station, served by all the city's metro lines. Nyhavn begins on the other side of the square and Hotel d'Angleterre is on the same square, so it is easy to combine a drink here with an evening walk along the canal or dinner nearby.

If you visit during the gløgg season, try it the Danish way, with raisins and almonds in the glass and perhaps an æbleskive on the side, if they are served that day.