Gran Caffè La Caffettiera

Gran Caffè La Caffettiera has been a fixture of Piazza dei Martiri, the elegant square at the heart of Chiaia, for more than 40 years. It describes itself as the good drawing room of Neapolitan hospitality, and it was created by the Campajola family, who have worked in the restaurant trade for more than a century. Chiaia is the city's smartest shopping district, and the café is where locals meet for a coffee between errands, a business lunch or an evening drink.

It opens every day from 7.00 to 23.00, which makes it useful at almost any time. In the morning, come for an espresso and a pastry, or for one of the coffee-based drinks. At lunchtime the kitchen serves traditional Campanian dishes with a modern touch, such as baked pasta timballi, sformatini of pasta alla Nerano with courgettes and provolone, and sartù di riso, the rich Neapolitan rice timbale. There is also a selection of teas and herbal infusions under its own Coccole label, and a dessert menu for an afternoon break.

In the evening the café turns to aperitivo, with cocktails inspired by Neapolitan figures and landmarks, served with finger food and snacks from its 'O Spassatiempo line. It is the only Ferrari Spazio Bollicine in southern Italy, a showcase for the Trentino sparkling wine house, and also pours Bisol prosecco and French champagnes. Watching the comings and goings on the piazza is part of the appeal.

Prices are in line with a smart café in a prime location, and table service costs more than standing at the bar, as is usual in Italy. It suits couples, shoppers, business travellers and anyone wanting a comfortable base in Chiaia. Reservations are not usually needed for coffee, but you can phone ahead for lunch.

Piazza dei Martiri is a few minutes' walk from Via Chiaia and the seafront at Via Partenope, and about ten minutes from Piazza del Plebiscito. The boutiques of Via dei Mille, Via Calabritto and Via Filangieri are close by, and the Villa Comunale park and the Lungomare are a short walk south. Piazza Amedeo station on metro Line 2 and the Chiaia funicular are the nearest public transport.