Pasticceria Bellavia (Piazza Muzii)

Pasticceria Bellavia has been making cakes and pastries in Naples since 1925, when Antonio Bellavia moved to the city and opened his business. Almost a century later it is one of the best-known pastry names among Neapolitans, with several shops in the city and beyond. The shop on Piazza Muzii, in the residential Arenella district just north of the Vomero, is a good place to see how locals buy their weekend cakes and Sunday pastries, away from the tourist crowds of the old town.

The counters are filled with the full repertoire of Neapolitan sweets. Look for pastiera napoletana, the Easter tart of ricotta, cooked wheat and orange blossom, the rum-soaked babà, sfogliatelle and taralli. Bellavia is also known for its torrone, the almond nougat sold in many flavours, and for traditional Christmas sweets such as roccocò, almond biscuits shaped like rings, and susamielli, spiced S-shaped biscuits. There are cakes such as torta caprese, the flourless chocolate and almond cake from Capri, as well as crostate and custom celebration cakes. The shops also sell savoury rosticceria items, such as small fried and baked snacks, which make a quick lunch.

Pastries can be taken away on a wrapped tray, the traditional way Neapolitans carry them to Sunday lunch. The company also ships gift boxes across Italy and sells online, which is useful if you want to send a pastiera home. Prices are typical of a good neighbourhood pasticceria, below those of the city-centre landmarks. Weekends, especially Sunday mornings, are busy, so arrive early for the best choice.

It suits travellers staying in the Vomero or Arenella, visitors with an interest in Neapolitan baking and anyone who wants to try a traditional pastry in a local setting. Families will find plenty to choose from.

Piazza Muzii lies in the residential streets north of the Vomero, and the hill's metro Line 1 stations and funiculars make it easy to reach from the centre. The Certosa di San Martino and Castel Sant'Elmo are also on the hill, so a visit can be combined with a morning there. Bellavia also has a shop inside Napoli Centrale station, handy for picking up sweets before a train.