Scaturchio

Scaturchio is one of the great names of Neapolitan pastry, and its historic shop on Piazza San Domenico Maggiore sits right on Spaccanapoli in the heart of the old town. The family story begins at the start of the 20th century, when two Scaturchio brothers opened a pastry shop on Via Toledo, bringing with them the almond-paste tradition of Calabria. Giovanni, the youngest of the family, returned from the First World War, married an Austrian woman and opened the shop on Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, adding Austrian classics such as strudel and Sacher torte to the Neapolitan repertoire and perfecting the brioche del Danubio, a soft tear-and-share bread that became a fixture of Neapolitan parties.

Ask any Neapolitan about Scaturchio and they will mention the babà, the sfogliatelle, the pastiera and the ministeriale. The ministeriale, created by the firm in the 1930s, is a chocolate medallion with a liqueur-flavoured cream filling, and the way it is made is still a closely guarded secret. The Babà Vesuvio, a large babà shaped like the volcano, was created in 1994 for the G7 summit held in Naples and still appears in the windows. The shop also sells its own liqueurs, including liquorice, limoncello and melon versions, and the company says it avoids industrial semi-finished products.

Inside, the format is the classic Neapolitan one: a long glass counter of pastries, a coffee bar and very little room to sit. Order and pay at the till, then hand your receipt to the barista for an espresso to go with a sfogliatella riccia or frolla. Prices are modest, and pastries are easy to take away in a small tray, which makes a good gift.

It suits anyone exploring the old town, and the square outside, with the Gothic church of San Domenico Maggiore and its baroque spire, is a pleasant place to pause. Families will find plenty to tempt children, and the counter moves quickly even when it looks busy.

Cappella Sansevero is around the corner, and Santa Chiara and the Gesù Nuovo are a few minutes west along Spaccanapoli. Scaturchio has further branches at Piazza Amedeo in Chiaia, on Via Luca Giordano in the Vomero, at Napoli Centrale station and at the Certosa di San Martino and Castel Sant'Elmo, but the historic shop is the one to visit.