Restaurant
L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele
Historic pizzeria run by the Condurro family, serving only marinara and margherita in a plain dining room on Via Cesare Sersale since 1930.
Historic pizzeria near Via Chiaia, linked to Raffaele Esposito and the story of the pizza Margherita created for Queen Margherita in 1889.
Good to know
Pizzeria Brandi occupies a corner of Salita Sant'Anna di Palazzo, a short lane just off Via Chiaia, a few minutes from Piazza del Plebiscito. Its story is tied to the most famous pizza of all. According to the pizzeria, the business was founded in 1760, and at the end of the 19th century it was made famous by Raffaele Esposito, who in 1889 made a pizza in honour of Queen Margherita of Savoy during her visit to Naples, topped with tomato, mozzarella and basil in the colours of the Italian flag. The pizza Margherita took its name from her.
Historians still argue about how much of the story is legend, but the pizzeria remains a pleasant and well-placed spot for a classic Neapolitan meal. The margherita is the house speciality, and the marinara, with tomato, garlic and oregano, is the other benchmark. There are also less common options such as the quattro stagioni, with mushrooms, ham, peas and seafood, and a pizza with buffalo provola, sausage and friarielli, the bitter local greens. The kitchen also serves other Neapolitan dishes, so it works for groups where not everyone wants pizza.
Brandi opens from Tuesday to Sunday for lunch from 12.30 to 15.30 and for dinner from 19.30 to 23.30, and is closed on Mondays. Prices are a little higher than at the basic pizzerias of the old town, reflecting the location and the table service, but remain moderate. Booking is sensible for dinner at weekends.
It suits first-time visitors who want to eat a margherita where the legend says it began, as well as families and couples looking for a sit-down meal close to the main sights. It is also central enough for a quick lunch between sights, and a good fallback when the pizzerias of the old town have long queues.
The pizzeria is in the San Ferdinando district at the top of Via Chiaia, the elegant shopping street that links Piazza Trieste e Trento with Chiaia. The Royal Palace, the Teatro di San Carlo, Galleria Umberto I and Gran Caffè Gambrinus are all within five minutes' walk, and Toledo and Municipio stations on metro Line 1 are close by.
According to the pizzeria, Raffaele Esposito created the Margherita here in 1889 for Queen Margherita of Savoy.
Tuesday to Sunday, 12.30 to 15.30 and 19.30 to 23.30; closed on Mondays.
The margherita is the house speciality; the marinara and salsiccia e friarielli are also popular.
Prices are moderate, a little higher than the simplest old-town pizzerias.
Booking is sensible for weekend dinners.
At Salita Sant'Anna di Palazzo 1/2, just off Via Chiaia near Piazza del Plebiscito.
Yes, the kitchen also offers other Neapolitan dishes.
The Royal Palace, Teatro di San Carlo, Galleria Umberto I and Gran Caffè Gambrinus.
Tour operator
Guided tours of a 19th-century Bourbon tunnel beneath Monte di Dio, used as a wartime shelter and later as a dump for cars, scooters and statues.
Café
Grand historic café founded in 1860 opposite the Royal Palace, with neoclassical and Liberty-style rooms, pastries, gelato and classic Neapolitan coffee.
Hotel
Historic five-star hotel on the Via Partenope seafront, welcoming guests since 1882, with 160 rooms and a ninth-floor restaurant overlooking the bay.
Bar
Discreet cocktail bar near the seafront founded by Alex Frezza, styled like a 1920s jazz lounge and ranked among Europe's 50 best bars.