Museo e Real Bosco di Capodimonte

The Capodimonte museum occupies the hunting palace that Charles of Bourbon began in 1738 on the hill above Naples, partly to house the Farnese art collection he had inherited from his mother, Elisabetta Farnese. The palace was designed by Giovanni Antonio Medrano, and it became a national museum in the 20th century. Its picture gallery ranks among the finest in Italy, yet it is far quieter than the museums of Florence or Rome, which makes it a pleasure to visit.

The Farnese collection on the first floor is the core. Highlights include Titian's portrait of Pope Paul III and his grandsons and his Penitent Magdalene, Masaccio's Crucifixion, Parmigianino's mysterious portrait known as Antea, Raphael's portrait of Cardinal Alessandro Farnese, Correggio's Mystical Marriage of St Catherine and Pieter Bruegel the Elder's The Misanthrope. Simone Martini's Toulouse Altarpiece of around 1317 is one of the treasures of early Italian painting. The second floor traces art in Naples itself, and the museum also holds Caravaggio's Flagellation, painted around 1607 to 1608. The royal apartments keep 18th-century furniture and a fine collection of porcelain, including the porcelain boudoir of Queen Maria Amalia, moved here from the palace of Portici.

The Real Bosco, the former royal park, surrounds the palace with avenues, woods and lawns. It is popular with local families for walks and picnics and makes a welcome break between galleries, with good views over the city in places.

The museum opens from 8.30 to 19.30 every day except Wednesday; the ticket office closes an hour earlier and different floors can have different last-entry times, so arrive by early afternoon. Booking is optional. Allow at least three hours for the main floors, and more if you want to walk in the park. There is a café on site.

Capodimonte is a good choice for art lovers, couples and anyone who wants a calmer museum day, and the park makes it practical for families. The hill is not served by the metro, so most visitors take a bus or a taxi from Piazza Museo or Piazza Dante; the Catacombs of San Gennaro are close to the route up the hill and pair well with a morning here.