Restaurant
Trattoria Milanese
A family-run trattoria in the old Cinque Vie quarter, serving risotto alla milanese, ossobuco and cotoletta since 1933.
Luini
A Milan institution a minute from the Duomo, selling hot panzerotti, small filled and fried or baked turnovers, to a constant queue.
At a glance
- Type
- Panzerotti shop
- Area
- Duomo, Milan, Italy
- Price
- $ · Budget
- Official site
- luini.it
Good to know
- Takeaway
- Quick service
- Vegetarian options
- Near the Duomo
Why we recommend it
Luini is one of the most famous cheap eats in Milan, a small shop on Via Santa Radegonda, just behind the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and a minute's walk from the Duomo. It specialises in panzerotti, half-moon turnovers of soft dough with a filling, a speciality brought to Milan from Puglia. The family's baking tradition dates back to 1888, and the shop has become a Milan institution, with a queue on the pavement at most times of day.
The classic panzerotto is filled with tomato and mozzarella and fried until golden and puffed, with molten cheese inside. Other savoury versions add ham, spinach and ricotta or other fillings, and there are baked options as well as fried ones. Sweet panzerotti with fillings such as chocolate or jam make a good dessert, and the shop also sells other baked goods. Each one is large enough for a light lunch, and two make a filling meal on the move.
Prices are low, which is a large part of the appeal in an expensive part of the city. There is no dining room: you order at the counter and eat standing on the street or carry your panzerotto to a nearby square. Be careful with the first bite, as the filling is extremely hot when it comes out of the fryer.
The queue looks daunting at lunchtime and on Saturday afternoons, but it moves quickly. Mid-morning or late afternoon are calmer. Staff work quickly and the counter can feel hectic, so decide on your fillings while you wait. Panzerotti also travel reasonably well if you want to take a few back to your hotel, though they are at their best straight from the fryer. Luini opens from Monday to Saturday from mid-morning until the evening, and it publishes a calendar of extra openings around the Christmas period; it is generally closed on Sundays outside those dates.
Luini suits everyone, from families with children to solo travellers on a tight budget, and it is ideal as a quick lunch between sights. The Duomo stop on metro lines M1 and M3 is a minute away. Take your panzerotto towards Piazza della Scala or back to Piazza del Duomo, and add a coffee in the Galleria afterwards.
Luini FAQs
What is a panzerotto?
A half-moon turnover of soft dough with a filling, usually fried; the classic version has tomato and mozzarella.
Is Luini expensive?
No. It is one of the cheapest ways to eat near the Duomo.
Is there anywhere to sit?
No. It is a takeaway counter, so most people eat on the street or in a nearby square.
When is Luini open?
Monday to Saturday from mid-morning to the evening, with extra openings around Christmas.
How long is the queue?
It can look long at lunchtime and on Saturdays, but it moves quickly.
Are there vegetarian options?
Yes, including tomato and mozzarella and spinach and ricotta fillings.
Are there sweet panzerotti?
Yes, with fillings such as chocolate or jam.
How do I get there?
Walk one minute from the Duomo stop on metro M1 or M3; the shop is behind the Galleria.