Eslava

Eslava has been part of the San Lorenzo neighbourhood for more than 30 years, and it is one of the names that comes up most often when locals talk about the best tapas in Seville. Its own description sums it up: three decades of combining tradition and innovation. It sits in a residential corner of the old town, away from the main monuments, which is part of its appeal.

Eslava works on two levels. The bar is lively and informal, with creative tapas served to a crowd that spills out on to the street in the evening. The best known is a slow-cooked egg served on a boletus mushroom sponge, a dish that has become something of a Seville classic. The restaurant next door is calmer, with table service, a fuller menu and a separate wine list, and suits a longer dinner or a lunch with family. Both draw on Andalusian ingredients while adding modern touches.

The cooking appeals to people who want more than the standard tapas repertoire but still like the energy of a Sevillian bar. It suits couples, small groups and food-focused travellers, and the restaurant is a good choice for celebrations. Prices are moderate given the quality, especially at the bar. There are also seasonal menus around Christmas.

The bar is popular and does not usually take reservations in the same way as the restaurant, so arrive as service opens to get a spot; the restaurant can be booked through the website. Opening days and hours can change through the year, so check with the restaurant before you go. Allow time to get there, as it is a little outside the usual tourist routes.

Calle Eslava is close to the Plaza de San Lorenzo and the Basílica del Gran Poder, one of the most important churches for Seville's Holy Week processions, in the north-west of the old town. The Alameda de Hércules is about five minutes away on foot, which makes Eslava a good start to an evening that continues in the bars there, and the Museo de Bellas Artes is within a ten minute walk.