Prague Castle

Prague Castle has crowned the hill above the Vltava for more than a thousand years. The first walled church was built here around 870, and over the centuries Bohemian kings, Holy Roman emperors and Czechoslovak presidents all ruled from these courtyards. It is still the official seat of the Czech president. The complex covers almost 70,000 square metres and is listed by Guinness as the largest ancient castle in the world, which explains why a visit takes far longer than most people expect.

The centrepiece is St Vitus Cathedral, a Gothic church begun under Charles IV in the 14th century and only finished in the 20th. Inside are the tomb of St John of Nepomuk, the richly decorated St Wenceslas Chapel and stained glass that includes a window designed by Alphonse Mucha. Nearby, the Old Royal Palace contains Vladislav Hall, a vast late-Gothic room added in the 1490s, and the Bohemian Chancellery, where the 1618 defenestration sparked a rebellion. St George's Basilica is the oldest surviving church in the complex, and Golden Lane is a row of tiny houses built into the castle wall.

The courtyards and the Garden on the Bastion are free to walk through, and the castle complex itself is open from early morning until late evening. The historic buildings need a circuit ticket, sold at the information centres in the second and third courtyards; the main circuit can also be bought online. The cathedral opens later on Sundays because of services, and the Royal Garden and Stag Moat close for the winter. Large bags are not allowed and there is a security check at the entrances, so travel light.

The castle suits anyone with an interest in history or architecture, and families can break up the visit with the gardens. Allow at least three hours for the main circuit, more if you climb the Great South Tower of the cathedral. Go at opening time or late in the afternoon to avoid the busiest tour groups, and check the official website for current closures, since parts of the complex are often being restored.

The most comfortable approach is by tram 22 to the Pražský hrad stop, which brings you in level with the castle, then walk out through the gates and down the Old Castle Steps towards Malostranská metro station. Strahov Monastery, Hradčany Square and the Lesser Town are all within walking distance.