Rokuyosha Coffee

Rokuyosha is one of the best-loved kissaten, or traditional coffee houses, in central Kyoto. It sits on the east side of Kawaramachi-dori just south of Sanjo, in the middle of the downtown shopping district, and it is run by the Okuno family across two separate spaces: a ground-floor café and a basement counter, each with its own master and its own character.

The ground-floor shop is run by Kunpei Okuno, who roasts the house blend and the beans for the family's 6448 Coffee and Essence brand, as well as roasting for other cafés, and who also works the counter every day. Downstairs, the basement shop is run by Osamu Okuno, who the family say was among the first in Kyoto to roast a range of single-origin coffees and brew them one cup at a time. He is also a singer-songwriter, which gives the basement a slightly bohemian feel.

Expect hand-brewed coffee, served with the unhurried care that marks a good kissaten, along with simple sweets. The atmosphere is that of an older Kyoto, and it is a pleasant contrast to the newer specialty coffee bars nearby. Beans roasted by the family can be bought at the shop or through the online store, and each shop takes orders and requests by phone.

Rokuyosha suits solo travellers, couples and anyone who enjoys traditional coffee culture. It is a small and popular place, so you may have to wait for a seat at busy times, and it is not well suited to large groups or to working on a laptop. Opening hours differ between the two floors, so check before planning an evening visit to the basement. If you can, try both floors on separate visits, as each master has his own approach to roasting and brewing.

The shop is a short walk from Kyoto Shiyakusho-mae Station on the Tozai subway line and from Keihan Sanjo Station across the river. The Teramachi and Shinkyogoku arcades, Pontocho and the Kamo River are all within a few minutes, and Francois Kissaten, another historic coffee house, is about ten minutes' walk to the south, so coffee lovers can compare the two in a single afternoon.