Sanjusangen-do

Sanjusangen-do, officially Rengeo-in, is a Tendai temple founded in 1164 by Taira no Kiyomori for the retired emperor Go-Shirakawa. A city fire in 1249 destroyed the original buildings, and the present main hall, begun in 1251, was completed in 1266. Its name refers to the thirty-three bays between the pillars of this remarkably long building, which stretches for about 120 metres and is a National Treasure, as are the statues inside.

The interior is unlike anything else in Kyoto. One thousand standing statues of the thousand-armed Kannon, carved from Japanese cypress and covered in gold leaf, stand in ten rows of fifty, filling the length of the hall. Only 124 survived the fire of 1249; the rest were made during the reconstruction. At the centre sits a large seated Kannon by the Kamakura-period sculptor Tankei. In front of the rows stand 28 guardian deities, carved with great vigour and drawn from Hindu and Buddhist traditions, along with the wind god Fujin and the thunder god Raijin, two of the best-known sculptures in Japan.

Walking along the hall takes about half an hour if you stop to look at the guardian figures, each of which is labelled. Photography is not allowed inside, and shoes are removed at the entrance, so wear socks in winter, when the wooden floor is cold. The hall is dimly lit, which adds to the effect but makes small details harder to see; give your eyes a moment to adjust. The temple is generally less crowded than the big hillside sights, and the visit is suitable for all ages.

The long west veranda has its own history. During the Edo period it hosted the Toshiya, an archery contest in which archers shot arrows along the full length of the hall. A modern successor, the Festival of the Great Target, is held each January, when young adults in kimono compete in the grounds. Outside, a small garden and pond surround the hall.

Sanjusangen-do lies a short walk east of Keihan Shichijo Station, and city buses from Kyoto Station stop at Hakubutsukan Sanjusangendo-mae, just outside. The Kyoto National Museum is directly across the road, and Chishaku-in, with its painted screens and garden, is a few minutes north-east, so the three make a good combined visit in the south of Higashiyama.