Café
El Fishawy
The celebrated coffeehouse of Khan el-Khalili, serving mint tea, Turkish coffee and shisha in a mirrored alley since the late 18th century.
A much-loved Downtown pastry shop on Talaat Harb Street, famous for its oriental sweets, kunafa, biscuits and ice cream, with queues at Ramadan.
Good to know
El Abd is one of the best-known pastry shops in Cairo, and its branch on Talaat Harb Street in Downtown is a landmark for Cairenes with a sweet tooth. It has been part of the city's daily life for decades, and the busy counters, bright displays and steady stream of customers make it one of the liveliest shopfronts on the street. It is a working local business rather than a tourist venue, which is exactly why it is worth visiting.
The range is wide. Oriental sweets such as basbousa, baklava and kunafa sit alongside Western-style cakes, petits fours, biscuits and sablés, and there is an ice cream counter that is popular on warm evenings. Kunafa nabulsiyya, with its soft cheese filling, is a speciality. During Ramadan, the shop becomes especially busy as families buy trays of kunafa and qatayef for the evenings, and in the days before religious holidays the counters fill with festive biscuits and ka'k.
El Abd suits anyone who wants to try Egyptian desserts, from solo travellers to families, and it is also a good place to buy a box of sweets as a gift. Prices are modest for the quality. Most customers take their purchases away, as there is little or no seating, so it works best as a quick stop during a walk through Downtown. Ice cream is easy to eat as you stroll along the street.
The shop is open from morning until late in the evening, though exact times are not published officially. The system can be confusing at first: you usually choose what you want, pay at the cashier and then collect at the counter with your receipt. Queues move quickly, but be patient at busy times, especially just after iftar during Ramadan. Carry cash in small notes.
The shop is on Talaat Harb Street, a few minutes' walk from Talaat Harb Square, Groppi and Café Riche, and about ten minutes on foot from Tahrir Square and the Egyptian Museum. El Abd has other branches in Cairo, but the Downtown shop is the most atmospheric. Combine it with a walk past the faded belle époque façades of Downtown, ideally in the early evening when the streets fill with shoppers.
Oriental sweets such as kunafa, basbousa and baklava, plus cakes, biscuits and ice cream.
There is little or no seating, so most people take their purchases away.
You usually choose, pay at the cashier and then collect at the counter with your receipt.
In the evenings, especially during Ramadan and before religious holidays.
No, prices are modest.
Yes, boxes of sweets and biscuits are popular gifts.
At 25 Talaat Harb Street in Downtown Cairo.
Tour operator
A Cairo food tour company founded in 2016 by two Egyptian women, leading small-group walking tours through Downtown's street food and local eateries.
Bar
Cairo's best-known live music club, open since 2001 in Agouza, with local bands and DJs on stage, cocktails and a food menu most nights.
Thing to do
Cairo's great historic bazaar, a maze of lanes selling lanterns, spices, brass and jewellery around a khan founded in the 1380s.
Restaurant
Chef Mostafa Seif's contemporary Egyptian restaurant inside the Giza archaeological site, named the best restaurant in the Middle East and North Africa in 2026.