Café Riche

Café Riche opened at 17 Talaat Harb Street in 1908 and is one of the most storied cafés in the Arab world. It passed through French, Greek and finally Egyptian ownership, and it has been at the centre of Cairo's political and cultural life for more than a century. An assassination attempt took place here in 1919, revolutionaries met here in the 1950s, and during the 2011 revolution it sheltered protesters from nearby Tahrir Square.

For decades it was the meeting place of Egypt's intellectuals, and its walls are lined with photographs of writers, poets and artists who were regulars, including Naguib Mahfouz, Youssef Idris, Amal Donqol and Salah Jaheen. The dark wood interior, old furniture and the framed pictures give the impression of stepping back into mid-20th-century Cairo. The café has had difficult periods, including a long closure in the 1990s, and its survival is part of its story.

The menu covers drinks and simple Egyptian and Eastern dishes, such as chicken fattah, fried or grilled kofta and shish tawook, with Egyptian rice, and desserts such as crème caramel. There is also a vegetarian menu. Prices are reasonable compared with other historic cafés in Downtown. Many people come simply for a tea or coffee and to look at the photographs, which is perfectly acceptable.

Café Riche suits anyone interested in Egyptian literature, history and politics, and it is a good stop for solo travellers and couples. The atmosphere is calm during the day. During Ramadan, its rooftop seating has been used for evenings after iftar. Opening hours are not published officially, so it is best to visit during the day and early evening. Allow 30 minutes to an hour.

The café is on Talaat Harb Street near Talaat Harb Square, a short walk from Tahrir Square and the Egyptian Museum. Groppi and El Abd Patisserie are nearby for sweets, and Abou Tarek's koshari restaurant on Champollion Street is a few minutes away. Sadat and Mohamed Naguib metro stations are both within walking distance, so it fits easily into a day spent exploring the architecture of Downtown. Staff are used to visitors asking about the photographs, and a quiet weekday afternoon is the best time to look at them properly over a coffee. Bring cash, and be patient if service is slow at busy times.