Café
Groppi
A celebrated Swiss-founded tearoom on Talaat Harb Square, open since 1924, where generations of Cairenes have come for éclairs, chocolates and ice cream.
El Fishawy
The celebrated coffeehouse of Khan el-Khalili, serving mint tea, Turkish coffee and shisha in a mirrored alley since the late 18th century.
At a glance
- Type
- Traditional coffeehouse
- Area
- Islamic Cairo, Cairo, Egypt
- Price
- $ · Budget
Good to know
- Outdoor alley seating
- Mint tea
- Shisha
- Open late
Why we recommend it
El Fishawy is the most famous traditional coffeehouse, or ahwa, in Cairo. It was established in 1773 in Khan el-Khalili and has been run by the same family for generations, which makes it one of the oldest working cafés in the city. Over the years it has drawn writers, musicians and politicians as well as bazaar traders, and Naguib Mahfouz, whose novels are set in these streets, was among its regulars.
The café spreads along a narrow alley just off the square by the Mosque of al-Hussein. Small marble-topped tables and wooden chairs line both sides, under heavy carved wooden frames and large mirrors that have gathered patina over the decades. The interior rooms are dark and atmospheric, but most people sit in the alley to watch the passing parade of vendors, families and visitors. The menu is simple: mint tea, black tea, Turkish coffee, karkadeh, the chilled hibiscus drink, sahlab in winter and fresh juices, along with shisha in a range of flavours.
El Fishawy suits anyone who wants to experience a Cairo coffeehouse in its most traditional form, from solo travellers to families. It is not a quiet place. Sellers of trinkets, perfume and shoe shines move between the tables, and the alley is crowded in the evenings, especially during Ramadan, when the café stays busy long after iftar. A polite no thank you is enough when you are offered something you do not want.
The café is open long hours, from morning until late at night, and it is liveliest after dark. There is no booking, so you simply find a free seat or wait for one. Prices are higher than at a neighbourhood ahwa because of its fame, but still inexpensive, and it is best to confirm the price when you order. Allow 30 minutes to an hour, and carry small notes in Egyptian pounds.
El Fishawy is in the heart of Khan el-Khalili, a few steps from Midan al-Hussein and across the road from Al-Azhar Mosque. Taxis drop visitors on Al-Azhar Street, as the lanes are car-free. It makes a natural rest stop after walking Al-Muizz Street, and the Naguib Mahfouz Café is close by if you prefer air conditioning and a full menu. Many visitors return in the evening, when the lanterns of the bazaar are lit.
El Fishawy FAQs
How old is El Fishawy?
It was established in 1773 and has been run by the same family for generations.
What should you order?
Mint tea or Turkish coffee, or karkadeh, the chilled hibiscus drink.
Is shisha available?
Yes, shisha is served in several flavours.
Do you need to book?
No. Seating is first come, first served.
When is it busiest?
In the evenings and especially during Ramadan.
Is it expensive?
It is inexpensive, though dearer than an ordinary local coffeehouse.
Where is it?
In Khan el-Khalili near Midan al-Hussein, opposite Al-Azhar Mosque.