Howlin’ Ray’s

Howlin' Ray's serves Nashville-style hot chicken, the fried chicken tradition from Tennessee in which the bird is coated in a spiced, chilli-laden paste after frying. It started in Los Angeles and has grown to three locations, including Pasadena and Las Vegas, but the original Chinatown counter on North Broadway is the one most visitors seek out.

The menu is short and focused. You choose a format, typically a sandwich or chicken pieces with sides, and a heat level, which ranges from no heat at all to levels that even chilli enthusiasts approach with caution. If you are unsure, start in the middle of the scale; the spice builds as you eat. Sides such as coleslaw, pickles and comfort-food classics help cool things down.

Queues are a well-known part of the experience, particularly at weekends, and it is common to wait a long time for your food. Arriving before opening or on a weekday is the best way to cut the wait. The Chinatown location is open from Wednesday to Sunday, 11am to 7pm, and closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

It suits budget-minded food lovers, solo travellers and groups of friends who enjoy spicy food and do not mind a wait. Children can enjoy the milder levels. Seating is limited, so be prepared to eat at a counter or take your food away. The restaurant can also be contacted by text on its listed number.

If the queue is too long, delivery is available from the Chinatown and Pasadena locations through Postmates, which can be handy if you are staying nearby. Check the website for the latest information on hours and menu items before visiting. Nashville hot chicken is rich as well as spicy, so many first-timers order a sandwich rather than a full plate, then return to try other options on a later visit. Bring water or order a cold drink with your meal, and do not touch your eyes after handling the chicken. The Chinatown counter is in a small plaza with other shops and restaurants, so groups can wait in shifts while one person holds a place in the queue.

Chinatown is a short walk from Union Station and has its own station on the Metro A Line. Philippe's and Olvera Street are close by, and the area's galleries, bakeries and dim sum restaurants make it easy to spend a few hours exploring after lunch.