Guelaguetza

Guelaguetza was opened in 1994 by Fernando Lopez, a restaurateur from Oaxaca, and since 2012 it has been run by his four children. The restaurant moved into its current building on West Olympic Boulevard in Koreatown in 2000, and it has become a cornerstone of the large Oaxacan community in Los Angeles. In 2015 it received the James Beard Foundation's America's Classics award.

Mole is the speciality, and the restaurant describes its moles as award-winning. Oaxaca is often called the land of seven moles, and the menu lets you explore several of them, from the dark, complex mole negro to the brick-red coloradito and the rojo. If you are new to Oaxacan food, ordering a sampler or sharing several dishes is a good way to compare them.

Beyond mole, look for Oaxacan staples such as tlayudas, the large, crisp tortillas topped with beans, cheese and meat, and dishes made with quesillo, the stringy Oaxacan cheese. Portions are generous and prices are moderate, which makes it a good place for a group meal.

The restaurant is closed on Mondays. It opens at 11am from Tuesday to Thursday, and at 9am on Friday, Saturday and Sunday for breakfast, closing at 9pm or 10pm depending on the day. Weekend mornings are a popular time for families, and evenings can be lively. It suits groups, families and anyone keen to try regional Mexican cooking beyond tacos.

Guelaguetza also sells its moles to take home, through its online shop, including coloradito, rojo and negro, which makes a good edible souvenir. Check the website for details of current products, as these change from time to time. The name comes from the Guelaguetza, the annual festival of music and dance held in the city of Oaxaca, and the restaurant's colourful dining room reflects that spirit of celebration. Staff are used to guiding newcomers through the menu, so do ask for recommendations if you are unsure which mole or dish to try. Large tables make it a good choice for family gatherings and birthday meals, and booking ahead is sensible for big groups at weekends.

The restaurant is in Koreatown, a short drive from Downtown and Mid-Wilshire, and buses run along Olympic Boulevard. If you are exploring the area, Koreatown's dense mix of restaurants, karaoke bars and late-night spots is all around, and the Wilshire/Western and Wilshire/Normandie Metro stations are a short ride north.