Bestia

Bestia is an Italian restaurant in the Arts District, the former warehouse area on the eastern edge of Downtown Los Angeles. It was opened by chef Ori Menashe and pastry chef Genevieve Gergis, and it helped put the neighbourhood on the city's dining map. The restaurant occupies a converted industrial building at the end of a quiet street with a busy bar and dining room.

The food is rustic Italian cooking with a Los Angeles accent: pastas, pizzas from a wood-burning oven, charcuterie and robust meat dishes, finished with a dessert menu that is a highlight in its own right. The menu changes over time, so treat it as a place to order several plates for the table rather than arriving with a fixed plan. The wine list leans towards Italian bottles.

Bestia is open for dinner every night from 5pm to 11pm and closes for most major holidays. Reservations are taken through OpenTable via the restaurant's website, and prime-time tables at weekends are often booked well in advance, so plan ahead or aim for an early or late sitting. Bar seats can be an option for small parties.

It is a lively, loud room, better suited to groups of friends, celebrations and couples who enjoy a buzz than to quiet conversation. Prices are upscale but not at the level of tasting-menu restaurants, and sharing several dishes is the usual approach. Smart casual dress is the norm.

The Arts District has many other bars, breweries and galleries within a short walk, so Bestia fits well into an evening in the area. Its sister restaurant Bavel, with a Middle Eastern menu, is nearby. Getting there by car or ride-share is easiest, as the street is at the edge of the district and parking can be tight in the evening. Because the restaurant is so popular, it is worth setting a reminder for when new reservations are released on OpenTable, and being flexible about the time of your booking. Arriving a few minutes early gives you time for a cocktail at the bar before your table is ready. Let the server know about allergies or dietary preferences when ordering, as many dishes can be adapted, and leave room for dessert, which regulars often say is not to be skipped.

Gift cards are available online. For questions about bookings or larger parties, the restaurant can be reached by phone, and it keeps up-to-date information on its Instagram and Facebook pages.