Thing to do
Mercado Municipal de São Paulo (Mercadão)
The city's grand 1933 food market, designed by Ramos de Azevedo's office, with stained-glass windows, more than 290 stalls and a mezzanine of restaurants.
A car-free alley in Vila Madalena whose walls are covered in constantly changing graffiti, named after a Batman stencil painted there in the 1980s.
Good to know
Beco do Batman, or Batman's Alley, is an alley in Vila Madalena, between Rua Gonçalo Afonso and Rua Medeiros de Albuquerque in the west of the city. In the 1970s it held a metal workshop, and around 1975 local children played volleyball and football there. By the 1980s it was a dark and poorly lit corner, but students from the University of São Paulo renting houses nearby drew artists to the area. The graffiti artist Alex Vallauri and Zé Carratu of the Tupinãodá collective painted the first works here, and at about the same time someone, still unidentified, stencilled the image of Batman that gave the alley its name. The original Batman has long since disappeared.
From the 1990s graffiti spread across the city and artists from all over São Paulo began competing for space on these walls. The murals are repainted regularly, so the alley never looks quite the same twice, and painters follow an informal code about who can paint and when it is acceptable to cover someone else's work. In the mid-2010s the alley was added to the city's tourist circuit, fitted with night lighting and closed to cars. In November 2020 the walls were painted black for two months in protest at the death of the local cultural producer known as Nego Vila, the only time that has happened.
A visit is free and takes 30 minutes to an hour, depending on how many photographs you take. Look out for the Escadaria do Patápio, a stairway nearby that locals call the Escadaria do Beco, and a painting of angel wings on Rua Harmonia, both popular backdrops.
Vila Madalena has several well-regarded restaurants, including Michelin Bib Gourmand picks such as Corrutela and Shihoma Pasta Fresca on Rua Medeiros de Albuquerque, so the alley works well as part of a wider walk with lunch. Reported robberies around the alley rose during the busy period of the 2014 World Cup, so keep phones and cameras secure, avoid displaying valuables and visit in daylight if you are on your own.
It suits photographers, street-art fans and anyone wanting a more informal side of the city after its museums. SP Free Walking Tour runs a tip-based Vila Madalena walk in English several days a week, a good option if you want a guide to the neighbourhood.
Yes. It is a public alley and free to visit at any time.
In Vila Madalena, between Rua Gonçalo Afonso and Rua Medeiros de Albuquerque.
After a stencil of Batman painted on a wall in the 1980s by an unknown artist; the image has since disappeared.
Yes. The walls are repainted periodically, and artists follow a code about painting over other works.
Between 30 minutes and an hour.
It is a busy tourist spot, but robberies have been reported in the past, so keep valuables secure and visit in daylight if alone.
The Escadaria do Patápio and an angel-wings mural on Rua Harmonia, plus the bars and shops of Vila Madalena.
No. The alley was closed to cars in the mid-2010s and now has night lighting.
Café
Isabela Raposeiras's specialty coffee café, roastery and barista school in Vila Madalena, focused on traceable microlots from named producers.
Attraction
São Paulo's best-known art museum, raised above Avenida Paulista on Lina Bo Bardi's suspended concrete structure and holding more than 8,000 works from Raphael to Portinari.
Hotel
A luxury hotel in the restored Matarazzo maternity hospital and a new vertical-garden tower near Avenida Paulista, with 160 rooms and suites and around 450 commissioned…
Tour operator
Tip-based walking tours of São Paulo's old downtown, Vila Madalena and Avenida Paulista, run in English and Portuguese by local guides several days a week.