Attraction
Wawel Royal Castle
The hilltop residence of Polish kings beside the Vistula, now a museum of state rooms, royal apartments, the Crown Treasury and seasonal gardens.
The twin-towered brick Gothic church on the Main Market Square, home of Veit Stoss's carved altarpiece and the hourly hejnał trumpet call.
Good to know
St Mary's Basilica, formally the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, rises over the north-eastern corner of the Main Market Square and is the building most people picture when they think of Kraków. The first church here was founded around 1221 to 1222, destroyed during the Mongol invasion and replaced by a Gothic church that was rebuilt from 1355 to 1365 under Casimir III the Great. Its two towers are unequal: the north tower reaches 81 metres and carries a gilded crown, while the south tower stops at 69 metres.
The great treasure inside is the altarpiece carved by Veit Stoss, known in Polish as Wit Stwosz, between 1477 and 1489. Fully opened, the triptych is about 13 metres high and 11 metres wide. Its lime-wood figures, some 2.7 metres tall, show the Dormition of Mary among the Twelve Apostles at the centre, with the Assumption above and the Coronation of Mary at the top, while the side wings show six Joys of Mary. The altarpiece was removed from Kraków during the Second World War, returned to Poland in 1946 and restored before being reinstalled in 1957. Take time over the walls too: in 1889 to 1891 Jan Matejko, assisted by Józef Mehoffer and Stanisław Wyspiański, painted the presbytery and nave, and the stained glass adds deep colour to the interior.
Every hour, day and night, a trumpeter plays the hejnał mariacki from the taller tower. The tune breaks off mid-phrase, recalling the legend of a 13th-century trumpeter shot in the throat while warning the city of an attack, and the noon call is broadcast live on Polish Radio. Stand in the square just before the hour to hear it. Separate guided visits up the Bugle Tower are run by the parish and listed on its website.
Tourist visiting hours are from 11:30 to 18:00, apart from special days. Tickets are sold at the Visitor Service Point at Plac Mariacki 7, which opens later on Sundays, from 14:00. Remember that this is a working parish church: dress respectfully and keep quiet during services. Allow forty-five minutes to an hour for the interior.
The basilica stands on Plac Mariacki, steps from the Cloth Hall and the Rynek Underground, so it fits easily into a morning in the Old Town. The small square beside it leads towards Mały Rynek and the start of Grodzka and Floriańska streets.
Tourist visiting hours are from 11:30 to 18:00, except on special days announced by the parish.
At the Visitor Service Point at Plac Mariacki 7, which opens from 14:00 on Sundays.
Veit Stoss, known in Polish as Wit Stwosz, carved it between 1477 and 1489.
When fully opened it is about 13 metres high and 11 metres wide, with figures around 2.7 metres tall.
A trumpet call played every hour from the taller tower. It stops mid-phrase in memory of a legendary trumpeter, and the noon call is broadcast on Polish Radio.
The north tower is 81 metres high and the south tower 69 metres, and the taller one is crowned with a gilded crown and used for the hejnał.
The parish runs separate tours of the Bugle Tower, with details on its website.
It is an active church, so dress respectfully and stay quiet, especially during services.
Bar
A Kazimierz bar and music club on the corner of Plac Nowy, running since 1999 and known for concerts, including the Kraków Jazz Autumn festival.
Restaurant
A two-Michelin-star restaurant in Kazimierz where chef Przemysław Klima serves seasonal tasting menus that rework Polish dishes, backed by a strong wine list.
Hotel
A five-star boutique hotel in an early 16th-century house on Kanonicza Street below Wawel, the first Polish member of Relais & Châteaux.
Café
A café on Floriańska Street founded in 1895, birthplace of the Green Balloon cabaret, serving house cakes amid a collection of Young Poland art.