Samode Haveli

Samode Haveli is a heritage hotel inside a mansion that the owners describe as around 225 years old, tucked away in a quiet corner of Jaipur's walled city. It belongs to the Samode family of hotels, which also includes Samode Palace, about 40 km outside Jaipur, and it is one of the most atmospheric places to stay within the old city itself.

The building is the attraction. Hand-painted murals cover walls and ceilings, courtyards are framed by bougainvillea, and there are terraces with views across the city as well as small alcoves and corners to discover. As in any historic house, rooms follow the original architecture, so ask about the options when booking if you have a preference. The hotel has been praised in publications such as Tatler, the Sunday Times and Condé Nast Traveller.

Guests can join complimentary guided walks, a good way to understand the old city's lanes and markets with someone who knows them. In January, when the kite festival fills the sky over Jaipur, the terrace is an excellent place to watch the kites. The textile, art and craft quarters of the old city are within walking distance, which is a real advantage over hotels in the newer suburbs.

Samode Haveli suits couples, culture-focused travellers and anyone who would rather wake up in the old city than commute into it each day. Its traditional layout means there may be steps and uneven floors, so mention any mobility needs when booking. Prices are in the upper-middle range for Jaipur, well below the big palace hotels, while still giving a strong sense of history. Reserve early for the cooler months from October to March.

Its position within the old city also means you can experience the Pink City in the early morning and evening, when the lanes are calmer and the light is at its best for walks and photographs.

From the haveli, Hawa Mahal, City Palace and Jantar Mantar can be reached by a short auto-rickshaw ride, and Johari Bazaar's jewellery shops are close. Amber Fort is a longer drive north of the city, best arranged with a taxi for a morning visit. The hotel team can help with transport and sightseeing plans.