Padmaa Jaipur

Padmaa is a 15-room boutique hotel in a haveli of around 300 years old, restored by its owners and opened as a hotel in the heart of Jaipur's walled city. It is named in part after the family matriarch, Padmaa Devi, whose trunk supplied many of the objects and curiosities on display. The location, off Chaura Rasta among some of the busiest market streets, puts you right in the life of the old city.

Restoration has kept the original character. The 300-year-old wooden entrance door survives, frescoes show beneath the limewash, and rooms are arranged around a central courtyard of arches, frescoes and Jaipur-pink walls. Marble inlay floors, custom lighting, swings, a rocking chair and deep niches turned into low seating give the common areas a homely feel, and small terraces have been converted into places to sit.

The rooms are noticeably larger than those in many branded hotels and each is a little different, decorated with hand block prints, handmade rugs and decorative pieces. Bathrooms have separate wet and dry areas and are clean and well ventilated, charming rather than luxurious. On the roof, a plunge pool offers a cool dip above the old city.

The in-house restaurant and bar follow the owners' Jain heritage and serve only vegetarian food, with Rajasthani dishes given a contemporary touch: a thali with gatte ki sabzi and dal baati churma, beetroot galouti and malai kulfi, plus cocktails made with herbs, citrus and native flowers. Just outside, Bhartiya Bakery across the street is said to date from the 1950s, and Samraat, a few steps away, is known for chai and samosas.

Time Out gave the hotel four out of five stars and listed it as recommended, praising the generous room sizes and the care taken in the restoration. It is a good example of how old-city havelis are being given new life as small hotels.

Padmaa suits travellers who want character, space and an authentic old-city base at a mid-to-upper price; Time Out quoted rates of roughly 12,000 to 18,000 rupees a night. The lanes around it are busy and vehicle access may be limited, so check arrival arrangements with the hotel. City Palace, Hawa Mahal and the bazaars are all within easy reach.