Salón Tenampa

Salón Tenampa is a historic cantina on Plaza Garibaldi in the Centro, and its name is tied to the story of mariachi in the city. Founded by Juan I. Hernández, it has been at the heart of celebrations on the plaza since 1925, and in the 1940s, during the golden age of mariachi, it became a favourite haunt of the stars of ranchera music. The songwriter José Alfredo Jiménez wrote "Mi Tenampa" in its honour, and the screen legends Pedro Infante, Cantinflas and Tin-Tan filmed scenes here. Later visitors have included Luis Miguel, Chavela Vargas and Enrique Bunbury. Food & Pleasure credits the salon with hosting some of the first mariachi groups on the plaza in the 1920s, which helped spread the music, and the walls are decorated with murals honouring Mexican composers and artists.

A night at the Tenampa is about music, tequila and food. Chilango describes it as the ideal place to celebrate the night of 15 September, the eve of Independence Day, with mariachi, good food and tequila, and the mood is festive throughout.

The kitchen is more ambitious than many visitors expect. Chilango recommends the molcajetes of pork belly or rib eye, a plantain molote with mole, quesabirrias made with birria de carnero in flour tortillas, a tetela of adobo-marinated pork shank, esquites and, for dessert, pan de elote with rompope custard. Chilango puts the average spend from around 400 pesos per person, and the salon opens from 13:00 until 2:00.

It suits groups of friends, couples and anyone who wants to hear mariachi in its traditional setting. Mariachis are the main attraction, and Food & Pleasure notes that groups on the plaza usually charge per song, so bring cash and agree the price before they play for your table. To drink, order a caballito, a small shot of tequila or mezcal. The salon is open until 2:00, so plan your journey back to your hotel in advance.

Plaza Garibaldi, named in 1921 after Peppino Garibaldi, also has the Museo del Tequila y el Mezcal, with more than 300 bottles on display and guided tastings, which makes a good first stop. The plaza is in the Centro, so a visit can follow a performance of the Ballet Folklórico or dinner in the historic centre. Allow two to three hours if you plan to eat and listen to several songs, and arrive early on big dates such as 15 September, when the Tenampa fills up quickly.