Rakkojae Seoul

Rakkojae is a traditional hanok hotel and cultural centre in the heart of Bukchon Hanok Village, and it is often credited as the first hanok in Korea to be repurposed as a hotel. Its name roughly means a house in which to enjoy the old. It opened in 2003, the year after the FIFA World Cup brought large numbers of foreign visitors to Korea, in a house with a history of around 130 years that was restored by Chung Young-jin, a master carpenter recognised as a holder of intangible cultural heritage.

The hotel is a compound of three hanok buildings arranged around courtyards, with tiled roofs, timber frames and paper screens. Rooms follow the traditional style, so guests sleep on thick bedding on heated ondol floors rather than on Western beds, and furnishings are kept simple and natural. The experience is about slowing down: sitting on the wooden veranda, listening to rain on the roof tiles or watching the light change in the courtyard. Cultural programmes, which have included tea and traditional crafts, help guests understand the house and the way of life it represents. It was the first hanok hotel to be listed in the first Michelin Guide to Seoul in 2017.

Rakkojae suits couples, culturally curious travellers and anyone who wants a stay that is part of the trip rather than just a place to sleep. It is less suited to those who need large modern bathrooms, lifts or extensive facilities, and guests with mobility issues should note that traditional houses involve steps, thresholds and sitting or sleeping at floor level. The hotel also has a sister property, Rakkojae Andong, in Hahoe Folk Village, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Rooms are limited, so book well ahead, especially for spring and autumn. Because Bukchon is a residential area with restricted visitor hours for day-trippers, staying here lets you see the lanes early in the morning and in the evening when the crowds have gone, but remember to keep noise down when coming and going.

Anguk Station on Line 3 is a short walk downhill. Changdeokgung and Gyeongbokgung palaces, Insadong and the cafés of Samcheong-dong and Ikseon-dong are all within walking distance, making it an excellent base for exploring the old city on foot.