Peumayén Ancestral Food

Peumayén Ancestral Food takes an unusual approach: its cooking honours the culinary traditions of the peoples who lived in Chile before the Spanish arrived. The kitchen draws on Mapuche, Aymara and Rapa Nui food among others, which makes it a natural follow-up to a visit to the Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino and its Chile antes de Chile exhibition.

The restaurant offers a tasting menu that moves through these traditions, with dishes such as chupe de jaiba, a crab dish, and cordero al palo, lamb cooked on a stake. It also serves vegetarian and vegan dishes, and wine pairing dinners feature unusual Chilean wines.

The restaurant describes its dining room as intimate, and service is offered in several languages, which makes the experience easier for visitors who want the background to each dish explained. Booking ahead is recommended, especially at weekends and on public holidays.

Peumayén is on Constitución in Barrio Bellavista, the neighbourhood between the north bank of the Mapocho and Cerro San Cristóbal. Constitución is one of Bellavista's main streets for restaurants and cultural venues, and the restaurant is a short walk from Patio Bellavista and from Pablo Neruda's house, La Chascona. That makes it easy to combine with an afternoon visit to La Chascona or a ride on the funicular up San Cristóbal, followed by an early dinner here.

The nearest metro station is Baquedano, where Lines 1 and 5 meet; from there cross the Mapocho on the Pío Nono bridge and walk north into Bellavista. The Castillo Rojo hotel is a few steps along the same street, so it is also a convenient choice if you are staying in Bellavista.

Peumayén suits curious eaters, couples and anyone interested in Chile's indigenous cultures. Allow a couple of hours for the tasting menu, and tell the staff about any dietary needs when you book so they can steer you towards the vegetarian or vegan dishes. Ask, too, about the stories behind the dishes, as the multilingual service is part of what makes the meal more than a set of plates. Check the restaurant's own channels for current opening times and menu details before you go.