Attraction
Cerro San Cristóbal (Parque Metropolitano)
Santiago's largest public park covers the slopes of San Cristóbal hill, with a 1925 funicular, a cable car, gardens, pools and a giant Virgin statue at…
Chile's neoclassical presidential palace, built as the colonial mint and bombed in the 1973 coup, with a changing of the guard and a cultural centre beneath its southern square.
Good to know
La Moneda is the seat of the President of Chile and one of the most historically significant buildings in the country. It was designed by the Italian architect Joaquín Toesca as the colonial mint; construction began in 1784 and the building opened in 1805, finished by the military engineer Agustín Cavallero after Toesca's death in 1799. Coins were produced here from 1814 to 1929, and in June 1845, under President Manuel Bulnes, it became the seat of government and the presidential residence.
The palace is best known for the events of 11 September 1973, when the Chilean Air Force attacked it during the military coup and President Salvador Allende died inside. Restoration was completed in March 1981, and some bullet marks were deliberately kept. Knowing this history makes a visit far more meaningful, and it pairs well with the Museum of Memory and Human Rights across town.
The building fills a whole block between Moneda, Morandé, Teatinos and the Alameda. To the north is the Plaza de la Constitución, laid out in 1930, and to the south the Plaza de la Ciudadanía, opened in December 2005 for the bicentenary and designed by Undurraga Devés Arquitectos. From the Plaza de la Ciudadanía, paths lead down to the Centro Cultural La Moneda, an underground arts centre with exhibitions on Chilean culture and history, which is easy to combine with a walk around the palace.
The changing of the guard, a ceremony dating back to the 1850s and performed by the Carabineros with their band, lasts about half an hour and takes place every other day. The rule of thumb is odd-numbered days in odd-numbered months and even-numbered days in even-numbered months, Sundays included, so check the date before you plan around it. The inner courtyards have been opened to the public at certain times since the Lagos government; arrangements change, so look for current visiting information before you go.
La Moneda is in the heart of Santiago Centro, so it fits easily into a morning spent exploring the historic core, alongside the Plaza de Armas and the Pre-Columbian Art Museum. Allow an hour for the outside, the squares and the ceremony, and longer if you visit the cultural centre.
You can walk around the outside and its squares freely, and the inner courtyards have been opened at certain times; check current arrangements before going.
Every other day: odd-numbered days in odd-numbered months and even-numbered days in even-numbered months, including Sundays.
About 30 minutes, performed by the Carabineros and their band.
On 11 September 1973 the Air Force attacked the palace during the military coup and President Salvador Allende died inside.
The Italian architect Joaquín Toesca; work began in 1784 and the building opened in 1805.
The Centro Cultural La Moneda, an underground arts centre reached by paths down from the square.
It was built as the colonial mint, and coins were made there from 1814 to 1929.
The Plaza de Armas, the Pre-Columbian Art Museum and the rest of the historic centre are all within walking distance.
Restaurant
Rodolfo Guzmán's Vitacura restaurant serves the Endémica tasting menu of 12 to 18 preparations built on native Chilean ingredients from coast to desert.
Café
Opened in 2001 as a corner grocery on Merced near Parque Forestal, Emporio La Rosa is a well-known artisan ice-cream shop, also serving Chilean lunch dishes.
Thing to do
Santiago's 1872 iron-roofed market hall, made in Glasgow, where fishmongers and seafood restaurants serve paila marina, mariscal and fried fish.
Bar
A cocktail bar devoted to the Negroni, listed on The World's 50 Best Bars extended list three years running, now at Terrazas San Cristóbal in Bellavista.